As many reviewers have reported, Palazzo Pantaleo is a great find. It’s within walking distance of everything—museums, churches, restaurants, shopping of every sort, but because it’s on an inner courtyard, it’s quiet and calm. The rooms are very large and the bathrooms modern and very well furnished. Giuseppe, the owner, is extremely helpful whether it’s confirming which bus to take to Monreale, suggesting a range of excellent restaurants, arranging a driver for a trip to Segesta and Erice in the off-season. The breakfasts are abundant and awesome, with Sicilian specialties galore, not to mention fresh-squeezed orange juice. Finding the B&B is a bit tricky the first time (it has a private elevator in an unmarked entry), so it’s good to call on your arrival in the courtyard or ask one of the obliging barbers in the shop on the ground floor, who will call for you.