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heritage/history, culture, scenic, big cities, museums, art
Set in the heart of Italy's much loved Tuscany region is it's capital city and one of the most historic and influential cities in Europe, Florence. It was the birthplace of the Renaissance and even today remains one of the principle repositories of European art. 250 kilometres north west of Rome, the Florence is home to nearly 400,000, with another 1,100,000 in the metropolitan area.
Florence was chiefly a centre of trade and culture during the middle ages and the Renaissance, that gave rise to an age of enlightenment, learning and intellectual reform that transformed Europe into the modern era. In particular, the Renaissance was a time when art flourished and was often studied in association with science and other disciplines. Many of the most prominent figures of the Renaissance, such as Leonardo da Vinci and Michelangelo were not only gifted artists, but scientists, inventors and architects as well. It is here that Gallileo pioneered many fields of study, astronomy being just one. The Medicis of Florence are credited with changing the world as the first true statesmen on history. Perhaps it is Pope Boniface VIII who put it best, declaring that Aristotle was incorrect and the universe consisted of not four elements but five - earth, water, fire, air and Florentines.
Many of the greats of the Renaissance have left their mark on this city and the old centre of Florence has been World Heritage Listed.
Florence is not only a virtual museum, it is a city full of great beauty. Grand gardens, expansive public squares, churches, monuments and palaces from throughout its history are still wonderfully preserved. Little wonder it is among the most desirable destinations for tourists on earth.
Thought to be the site of an early Etruscan settlement, Florence is recorded as being first settled by the Romans in the first century AD. The city grew to be a commercial centre due to its location along the main route, between Rome to the south and cities further north. Before 1000 AD, Florence often played second fiddle to Lucca in the region, but when the Margrave of Tuscany chose Florence instead of Lucca as his place of residence, this ushered in a period of construction and revitalisation, that in turn brought the first wave of Florentine art elevated the city in its power and influence.
In the 12th century, Florence was ruled by a council of influential families. Inevitably there was conflict among these families, much of it based on religious differences. A pro-papacy faction eventually took control, however this group also was affected by division. Eventually, power was consolidated with the Albizi Family, who were directly opposed by the Medicis.
Not to be outdone, the Medicis used their influence as bankers to the papacy to gain power in the 15th century, with Cosimo Medici becoming the effective ruler of Florence. Together he and his family - in particular his grandson, the rather extravagantly named "Lorenzo the Magnificent" - gave birth to a period where art, music, poetry and education flourished in Florence. The Medicis made peace with Milan and ruled an era of stability and wealth in the city. Lorenzo though, it seems, was not magnificent in every sense, and his lack of business acumen led to the failing of the Medicis banking empire, which in turn caused the family to lose power over the city, largely forced by the influence of the papacy.
A short period of rule by a Dominican monk followed, before the Spanish defeated the city in the early 1500's. Charles V married his daughter to another Medici, Alessandro, who was appointed as the Duke of Florence. Cosimo Medici became Grand Duke of Tuscany.
Later, Florence was ruled for a period by the Duke of Lorraine as part of the territories controlled by Austria. The French then reigned after the conquest by Napoleon, until Lorraine was able to wrest back control. Eventually, Florence becoming a province of the Kingdom of Italy in 1861, and even enjoyed a stint as the capital of Italy between 1865 and 1870.
The city flourished in the early 20th century but was severely damaged by bombing during World War II and was occupied by German forces for over a year. The retreating Germans did further damage by destroying all of the city's bridges, with the exception of the Ponte Vecchio.
The city suffered further loss of treasures during severe flooding in 1966, and a bombing by the Mafia in 1993.
When you think about Florence, it is primarily art and culture that springs to mind. It is a city filled with treasures, and in the old town you walk among them with architecture and inspirational buildings everywhere you look. The names that have contributed to the city are a who's who of European masters - Michelanglo, Leonardo da Vinci, Botticelli and Donatello to name a few, but there are literally dozens more.
The Duomo di Firenze is the main cathedral of Florence which boasts the famous Brunelleschi's Dome, an amazing feat of engineering for its time. There are many other churches and sites, each with their own fascinating story to tell and which contain artistic treasures, centuries old. Climb Giotto's Tower for panoramic views across the city, as well as Florence's world famous bridge, the Ponte Vecchio that connects the Uffizi to the Medici Palace.
In art terms, the incredible Uffizi is one of the world's most famous galleries and holds an astonishing collection of priceless art. Among its more famous paintings are Leonardo da Vinci's 'The Annunciation' and the 'Adoration of the Magi', Botticelli's 'The Birth of Venus', as well as works by Michelangelo, Raphael and Rembrandt. Perhaps the most famous sculpture in the world, Michelangelo's David is housed at the Accademia Gallery. Many other galleries are scattered throughout the old town and it would take a very long time to even list the significant works of art held, let alone visit them. Away from art, there is the Institute and Museum of the History of Science, which holds a fascinating collection of instruments from the early years of biology, chemistry, maths, astronomy and physics, as well as an amazing collection of early maps and globes.
Behind the Pitti Palace (the former Medici residence which now holds a collection of their art and treasures) is the Boboli Gardens, a series of manicured formal gardens containing a multitude of sculptures, pons and pathways, as well as having superb views over Florence. Admission into the gardens also includes entry to the Bardini Gardens just a short walk away, which are also superb and again have brilliant views.
Florence's historical commitment to style didn't end with the Medicis either, it's the home of Gucci and the fashion and shopping are excellent. Boutique stores sporting the latest styles in shoes, jackets and sunglasses sit beside trendy cafes and bars.
Of course, Florence with all its charms sits in the heart of Tuscany, so if you find yourself suffering from an overload of culture you can always press the reset button and head out into the country for a respite, before continuing boldly on.
Like many big tourist destinations, the centre of the historic district can be a bit overpriced and not necessarily the best quality.
A famous dish in Florence is the 'Bistecca all fiorentina', which is essentially a massive t-bone steak served rare. It is often seasoned with salt, pepper and olive oil, garnished with lemon and served with a side of Tuscan beans and a hearty red wine. Other Tuscan foods feature simple dishes of locally grown produce, with olives, cannelini beans, vegetables and grains used prominently.
Biscotti di Prato also comes from Tuscany, these are crispy bakes cookies with almonds that are traditionally eaten post dinner and dipped into sweet wines.
Chianti is the most famous of the local wines, but the region has many others which are also excellent.
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Florence has its own international airport and there are Florence flights from many destinations throughout Europe. It is also a major point on the Eurostar train network, with connecting journeys to other major cities.
Getting around the historic centre of Florence is best experienced on foot, as all the major sites are within an easy walk of each other. Realistically, you don't want to be in a car or on a bus in this extraordinary place, where there are beautiful sites in any direction you look.
Taxis are available, but you may need to ring and book ahead. Buses also run around the city. Unless you have nerves of steel, the reflexes of a mongoose and the patience of a saint, don't bother driving. Parking is harder than you can imagine and the streets are narrow and often one-way (usually not the way you are going). You may choose to hire a car in Florence for when you are heading out of town to explore the region, otherwise it's best avoided.
The weather in Florence is typified by hot and humid summers with not much rain. The days in July and August average highs above 30°C with pleasant nights. In winter the days only get up to around 10°C and the nights get down to just a few degrees above freezing. Most of the rain comes in the months from November to April.
Summer crowds in Florence can be big and the line up for attractions long. A great tip is to book tickets to the main museums (the Uffizi, Accademia Gallery, Pitti Palace etc) online in advance and skip the queue. In the busiest periods, you may need to book weeks in advance.
As a major tourist destination there are hundreds of Florence hotels to choose from. In the centre of town there are plenty of five star luxury hotels with exquisite views, but there is also some surprisingly cheap Florence accommodation near the central sites as well. Some may only be 2 star or less but there are several that have clean and comfortable rooms that are just a stroll away from the historic heart. After all, Florence is not a destination where you are likely to be spending much time in your hotel room.