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"Up the spiral metal stairs, under the bougainvillea and the ripening pomegranates, we gain access to our simple room with its extraordinary view. At night, the distant hilltops sparkle with lights. And in the daytime these neighborhoods shine green and white—gardens and stone taken from the Judean hills on which they perch. Throughout the day the shadows and light are a changing vista, The green of Wadi Kelt and a trail leading to this oasis are visible from a little wooden deck. In the morning...