Sorrento’s historic centre is romantic and charming, with its narrow, winding streets and alleyways lined with old houses and quaint trattorias. The region is known for its Neapolitan architecture, and the town holds fine examples such as the cathedral, St Anthony’s Basilica and the Franciscan Monastery. Pretty Piazza Tasso, lined with small shops and eateries, leads to the pedestrianised old town and is a great place for people-watching.

Sorrento sits high on rugged cliffs overlooking the lovely Bay of Naples, and was a fishing town for centuries. It’s a centre for boat tours of the bay, with a relaxing full day at sea on a mini-cruise taking in views of the town and its rugged cliffs, the picturesque Amalfi coastal villages of Positano and Amalfi, their exclusive offshore islands and the rugged coastline of the Isle of Capri, once home to Roman emperors but now home to the rich and famous of the modern world.

Walking and hiking in the verdant hills or a visit to Punta del Capo at the head of the peninsula gets visitors away from the crowds and gives spectacular views as well as a ruined Roman settlement to explore. Networks of shepherds’ trails cross the peninsula, connecting tiny, traditional villages, and rougher trails higher in the mountains are marked in red by the local Alpine Club. Cycling and mountain biking can also be had here.

A must-do on a Sorrento holiday is a boat trip to Capri and a day spent exploring this iconic island. Capri Town is a picturesque hub for celebrities and upscale shopping, and the Blue Grotto sea cave is spectacular. Villa Jovis was the Roman Emperor Tiberius’s summer residence, and the hilltop village of Anacapri has the best views of all, right across to Mount Vesuvius on the mainland. The exclusive jewellery boutiques on the island are treasure troves of gold, precious stones and extravagant design.

While major landmarks such as ancient Pompeii lie within a 30-minute drive of Sorrento, the pretty town itself is full of interesting buildings and sites to discover. The town was first established as Surrentum in Roman times, in a region with strong connections to several Roman emperors, although all that remains is the Roman settlement and aqueducts on the Stabiae Road outside the town.

Sorrento’s two major architectural landmarks are the 11th century Cathedral with its 15th century façade, the Basilica of St Anthony and the St Francis Church. The Monastery of St Francis and its cloisters are a highlight, with the complex still a working monastery housing Franciscan monks.   

The Archaeological Museum of Sorrento holds artefacts from Roman times, excavated on the Sorrentino Peninsula, giving a useful timeline of the region’s long history. The Museum Correale di Terranova is set in an imposing heritage building, formerly the Palazzo Correale, and contains displays of historic artefacts such as furniture, ceramics and local traditional artefacts from all periods. Lovely landscaped gardens and views across the bay are a bonus, as are the immediate surroundings of historic homes and pretty piazzas.

The Museo Bottega is the place to see antique examples of Sorrento’s most famous craft, marquetry. Practiced for centuries, the art of inlaying furniture and useful objects with stunning designs is at its zenith here. Hand-painted wallpaper also features, and the impressive 18th century palatial building boasts elegant frescoed vaults. Visitors have a fine choice of modern versions of the much-admired craft, perfect for souvenirs of a visit to Sorrento and as carefully made as the originals. 

An important landmark is the 15th century Sedil Dominova, set close to the cathedral’s bell tower and displaying the coats of arms of the ancient aristocratic families of the town. Its dome is inlaid with brightly-coloured tiles and the structure is a quintessential part of Sorrento’s history and heritage. The town’s amazing natural landmark is the deep, wooded volcanic rift passing through its centre and containing an ancient mill at its deepest point, which is prettily illuminated at night. Several restaurants are right on the edge of the rift, giving a fascinating glimpse of its depths as well as great sea views.

Entertainment and nightlife in Sorrento may not be on the scale of Ibiza as there are few dance clubs and all-night venues, but there’s plenty to keep visitors happy until the early hours. An absolute favourite is the Teatro Tasso, a Neapolitan version of a cockney music hall serving up the Sorrento Musical nightly at 21:30. It’s a romantic - some might say sentimental - revue of the soulful Neapolitan-dialect ballads such as Torno a Suriento and O Sole Mio, made popular in the 20th century by Enrico Caruso, Mario Lanza and a host of Italian operatic tenors up to the present day.

Bars, pubs, Café and trattorias are the main nightlife hubs in the town, ranging from the romantic through the semi-rural, to buzzing music haunts and elegant wine bars. The main square, Piazza Tasso, is the place to see and be seen, with half its area taken up by the somewhat pricey buy popular Fauno Bar, a major people-watching spot. Another Piazza Tasso haunt is the Fauno Notte club, offering a timeline of Neapolitan history through its music. For those missing their local pub, there are several good hostelries here which are popular with visitors and local expats alike.

Tucked away in the back streets or fronting the harbour are unpretentious watering holes which offer food as well as an authentic southern Italian experience away from the main tourist drag. A good, if pricey, option is the Filou Club’s piano bar, also a restaurant and a favourite hang-out for visitors and expat residents. For serious dance clubs and other rave venues, a trip to Naples is the only choice, although Artis Domus and Castore claim disco status as part of their other offerings, such as piano bars and cocktail lounges.

Neapolitan cuisine is one of the most-loved regional Italian cuisines in the world, and there’s far more to it than the ubiquitous pizza. Its roots go back to the Greco-Roman era, and the gastronomy embraces influences from the diverse cultures which controlled the Naples area over the centuries. Rural ingredients still dominate, with pasta the main carbohydrate and fresh vegetables, cheese seafood, meat and olive oil the main staples. Also present are tasty remnants of the local aristocratic cuisine, mostly based on rice or pasta and involving elaborate preparation.  

Although meat or seafood are almost invariably parts of the main course of a meal, vegetarians won’t miss out on the local cuisine, with treats such as parmigiana di melanzane (aubergine pie baked with cheese and an oregano/tomato sauce) and peperoni ripiene (stuffed peppers). A surprising number of cheese recipes have survived from Roman times, and mozzarella di bufala is served with sliced tomatoes as an entree or in a salad. Less meat than seafood is eaten, with pork, lamb and especially tripe all favourites. Tripe may be frowned upon by visitors but served in a rich, herb-flavoured béchamel sauce, it’s delicious.

Now one of the world’s favourites, pizza was invented in Naples in the 16th century and was soon served everywhere including at the Royal court. The most-used seafoods are the cheaper fishes, shellfish and crustaceans, although tuna and shark steaks baked in a rich, herby tomato sauce are seen on many menus. Italian red and white wines accompany each meal, and the local lemon liqueur is perfect after a rich dessert, accompanied by a strong, black espresso coffee. If you’re in Sorrento in summer, don’t miss the delicious, tiny wood strawberries served with sugar and more of the lemon liqueur.