The Rhythm & Foods of Kingston, Jamaica

A harbour city on the southeastern coast of Jamaica, Kingston couldn’t feel further from the north coast resort towns. The country’s capital and largest city boasts a rich and storied history as a cultural hub, not just in Jamaica, but around the world.

Take, for example, its musical exports. Two-time Grammy-nominated artist Runkus, a Portmore-native, knows a thing or two about Kingston’s global influence.

“When you think of Jamaica, you think of reggae. When you think of reggae, you think of Bob Marley. But Jamaica is home to many other genres and music legends, like Jimmy Cliff, Peter Tosh, Bunny Wailer, Ernest Ranglin, The Skatalites…” lists Runkus.

“Here, music comes from the soul and the soil.”

Introducing “Eats & Beats” – a series that explores the sights, bites and sounds of your next destination. “Eats & Beats: Jamaica | Episode 1: Kingston” now streaming below. Watch “Episode 2: Montego Bay” here.

But Runkus will be the first to admit music isn’t Jamaica’s only cultural export. Award-winning chef, restaurateur and Kingston-native Charissa Skyers offers some food for thought.

“Our food starts from a foundation of different influences and cultures from people that came here from all over the world” she says. “And because of Jamaica’s lack of resources, we figured out how to make anything taste good. It’s the ingredients that we use. The spices are just that much better.”

At the heart of every Jamaican household is a homemade meal, sourced from local ingredients, packed with flavour and love. Every plate offers a buffet of colour, texture and spice.

“Jamaica is so blessed. It’s blessed with a culture rich in flavour and music, yes, but also creativity, love and art”, Runkus expounds.

In Jamaica – especially Kingston – food, music, art, dance and nature are threads in the local tapestry, pieces of the culture in constant conversation with each other.

So, pull up a chair; Runkus and Charissa are ready to have that conversation.

Or enjoy a meal on the patio at Julie Mango Restaurant, a hot spot known for its fresh and innovative takes on classics. If you’re looking for some wine to pair with lunch, visit Uncorked—what began as a simple wine bar has evolved into a fully fledged restaurant with impressive cheese and charcuterie platters, weekly specials and innovative breakfast and brunch menus.

It doesn’t take long to realise Kingston cuisine has it all: casual bites like Tastee‘s famous meat patties or PeppaThyme’s spectacular rum ribs; or more upscale fare like South Avenue Grill‘s famous steaks, Broken Plate (“You must try the seafood scotch bonnet linguine!” Charissa insists), or Ming Cuisine, an example of Jamaica’s delicious and ever-growing Asian food scene.

The Sounds of the City

Now that we’ve fed our bellies, it’s time to feed our souls with the sounds, rhythms and beats of Kingston. Restaurants and clubs like Ribbiz Ocean Lounge, Janga Soundbar, and Dubwise Cafe are known for pairing a meal with live music.

As a mecca for musicians, Kingston is a playground for fans of reggae and ska, among other genres. Music lovers can start by booking a tour at one of the historic recording studios in the city, like Harry J Studio or the legendary Tuff Gong Recording Studio, where Bob Marley, himself, recorded.

For fans of the iconic artist and trailblazer, the Bob Marley Museum is a must-see. There, you can explore the home of the music legend and see some of his personal treasures, first-hand (“I have to stress – we’re in Bob Marley’s home!” Runkus interjects excitedly). The property also features an 80-seat theatre, a gallery of rare photographs, a record shop and a gift shop full of Bob Marley memorabilia.

Tour a studio, attend a concert, take a guided walking tour to learn about Kingston’s music scene from a local, or simply pull up a chair and take in the rhythms all around you.

The Hills Are Alive

Moving outside the city centre to the lush rolling hills surrounding it, we can hear the distinctive sizzle of Johnny Cakes being fried in butter.

Charissa has brought us to EITS Café, a mountain-side spot offering farm-to-table dining. From the vantage point on the cafe’s balcony, the city stretches out below, a reminder that Kingston’s rhythm is shaped by its land, its people and its food. (EITS Café was impacted by Hurricane Melissa, but recovery has begun and business will be up and running soon.)

“EITS is a great place to reconnect and catch up with life,” Charissa says. “The music is as vibrant as the colors and the colors are as vibrant as the flavors.”

Also situated in the hills overlooking the capital city is Kingston Dub Club, a sanctuary for roots, rockers, reggae and dub music. Each Sunday, lovers of Jamaica’s music celebrate the past, present, and future of reggae music. Wednesdays are for live sessions, when up-and-coming Kingston talent take the stage.

For a bite hidden in the hills of St Ann, make your way to Stush in the Bush, whose vegan menus are inspired by the seasons and a passion for sustainability. After your meal, an Earth walk through the farm invites visitors to establish an intimate connection with the ingredients they just enjoyed, followed by coffee and desserts like cinnamon rolls, rum and raisin ice cream, and beignets with lemon curd.

Bands playing familiar melodies in the streets, passersby joining in as one voice. A shared meal of locally sourced meat and vegetables rubbed, marinated and grilled on an open fire, cut and served by hand. Flavors conceived in home kitchens; reggae and ska bands formed in backyards.

“The hospitality, the warmth of the people… it makes the food taste even better. It makes the music sound even sweeter,” concludes Runkus.

From its bold use of flavors we know and love to the dozens of musical genres it’s influenced for generations, Kingston, Jamaica is a city that knows and celebrates its roots and proudly shares them with the world.