Hidden behind a wooden door and up echoing stone steps, the Antica Dimora is a real sanctuary of sophistication and tranquility. On entry the shuffling mass of Florence's tourism is replaced with classical music, sofas the colour of claret, freely available tea, coffee and cake, and an honesty bar proffering Vin Santo and biscotti. Our double room was faultlessly beautiful, with an understated and tasteful charm. The four-poster bed was spacious and firm. The large windows ensured easy ventilation, and as they looked on to courtyards behind the main street it was possible to keep cool without traffic noise. The Florentine sun filtered gently in each morning, other guests were scarcely audible, and breakfast was wonderfully calm - a balanced continental buffet, with freshly filtered coffee, fruit juices, pastries, cereals, and a whole variety of breads, meats and cheeses. Sipping coffee and slowly awakening at a large shared table, with classical music drifting over us and a hushed, gentle atmosphere in which the hotel staff were carefully attentive but utterly non-intrusive, this was the perfect start to a day of sightseeing. We were able to walk to the duomo within 15 minutes, and yet we were sufficiently north of the major tourist centre to feel in touch with a more authentic Italy, and to be able to find a local trattoria for an evening meal - then a stroll down to the Arno before tea in our lovely room and restorative sleep.