Dubai (and vicinity) holidays

The smallest of the U.A.E. states, Ajman is divided into three separate enclaves. Its population lives mainly in the expanding capital port on the Arabian Gulf. Lacking oil or gas revenues, Ajman is poorer than its Emirate neighbours and traditional livelihoods include farming, fishing, and boat-building, but a liberal economic regime has attracted much recent foreign investment. Its relaxed beaches provide a respite from the bustle of Dubai.

The main administrative and shopping district, Bur Dubai contains some of Dubai’s oldest buildings. Bastakiya is a carefully restored ‘heritage quarter’ of narrow alleys and courtyard houses cooled by wind-towers. Sheikh Maktoum’s House (now a museum) is a fine example of 19th-century Arabian architecture. The nearby Dubai Museum offers a succinct account of the Emirate’s history, while the Heritage & Diving Village recreates its maritime past.

On the north side of Dubai Creek, Deira is an interface between the high-rise business city and the traditional Arab trading port. Modern malls give way to ancient souks selling silks, spices, gold, perfumes, and a lively fish market. A broad waterfront promenade leads past the dhow wharf, where the wooden vessels offload their cargos. Beyond lie the dhow boat-building yards, and Dubai Creek’s ritzy golf and yacht club.

Jebel Ali, 35 kilometres south-west of the city on the Abu Dhabi road, is a free zone with a large expatriate population and over 5,500 multinational companies. The coastline is home to gleaming waterfront high-rises, and one of Dubai’s futuristic ‘Palm Island’ projects is taking shape offshore. The new international airport is located in Jebel Ali along with Dubai’s huge port, an artificial harbour capable of handling the world’s largest ships.

Stretching along the Arabian Gulf, Jumeirah Beach is a rapidly growing seafront resort with leisure parks, shopping malls, boutiques and beauty salons. The sail-shaped Burj Al-Arab tops the luxury hotel league. Development continues, both along the coast and on artificial offshore islands. The mosaic-encrusted Iranian Hospital and Mosque are closed to the public, but the exquisite Jumeirah Mosque admits non-Muslims for guided tours.

Dubai’s closest neighbour, Sharjah is the third-largest Emirate. Oil and natural gas changed the fortunes of this old sheikhdom, and UNESCO declared it ‘cultural capital of the Arab world’ in 1998. Historic buildings rub shoulders with striking modern architecture, while rugs, cosmetics and jewellery are all on sale at the Blue Souk. Visitors should note that Sharjah is more conservative than Dubai, (no alcohol or revealing clothing).

This eight-lane speedway running parallel to Jumeirah Beach towards Abu Dhabi gives an instant snapshot of modern Dubai. It’s changing rapidly as brand-new buildings supersede those barely a couple of decades old. South of the World Trade Centre roundabout, eye-catching chrome and glass high-rises pierce the skyline. The Emirates Towers is one of the most dramatic architectural statements, a dazzling complex that includes a hotel and exclusive designer boutiques.

The densely packed skyscrapers along this busy highway thin out slightly through New Dubai, a residential and commercial zone of malls, golf courses, art galleries and nightspots. The green expanses of Safa Park are popular with local families while the Mall of the Emirates has an indoor ski slope. Further south, the Golf and Diamond Park offers guided factory tours. Off Intersection 5, Dubai Marina is surrounded by luxury developments.