Madrid holidays

In the east, overlooked by the retro-looking silver transmission tower, the restful Parque del Oeste contains fir trees and students relaxing on the grass (thanks to the nearby universities). Catch a cable car across the Manzanares river to the Casa de Campo, or watch sunset from a terrace on lively Paseo del Pintor Rosales or the Templo del Debod. The bus station is a major hub for the north-west.

In the north-west of the city, the area known as Ciudad Lineal (Linear City) was designed by urban planner Arturo Soria (1844 -1920). Off the long, straight tree-lined street that carries his name are primarily residential streets with some small businesses, colleges, restaurants and bars to discover. Young professionals and families are increasingly taking a shine to this green, quiet district.

South of the centre, Atocha is Madrid’s largest train station with fast trains to Andalusia and, more surprisingly, tropical gardens (with a pleasant café) in the old terminal building. The Museum of Anthropology is opposite and, over the Ronda de Atocha, the Reina Sofia art museum has benefited enormously from a bold, modern expansion. Nearby, Teatro Circo Price is a traditional circus and ideal for children.

Out east, the magnificent new Terminal 4 at Barajas Airport is the largest in the world. All terminals are accessible by metro (pink line 8), shuttle bus, taxi or the 200 or 204 buses from Avenida de América. IFEMA, also known as Feria de Madrid, is a large modern exhibition space for trade shows, with several hotels and restaurants opposite. The nearest metro is Campo de las Naciones.

In northern Madrid, Chamartín train station is the second-largest after Atocha. This is mainly a business district although the residential area south of it contains plush low-rise apartment blocks and houses. At the circular Plaza de Castilla, next to the bus station, loom the two iconic black leaning towers called the Puerta de Europa.

A down-at-heel central area in the 1980s, Chueca is now the fashionable gay heart of the city. The Plaza de Chueca is its epicentre, with countless terraces, bars and clubs in and around it. The surrounding streets are packed with cutting-edge shops and restaurants as well as traditional tapas bars. Don’t miss the Museo Municipal on Fuencarral, with its fine baroque entrance and Habsburg treasures within.

Musicals, hotels, shops and restaurants make the Gran Via a rich vein of entertainment, finishing in the east with the black dome of the Metropolis building. The heart of Madrid, the Puerta del Sol contains the statue of the symbolic bear of Madrid and Tio Pepe sherry sign. Westwards, the grand Plaza Mayor was once the site of inquisitions and executions, but is now mostly visited for its terrace cafes.

At the western end of the arterial Gran Via, Plaza de España is home to Franco-era architecture like the monstrous red and white Edificio España. The nearby Palacio Real (royal palace) was rebuilt in 1764 and is still used for state functions. It contains some wonderfully ornate rooms and is free on Wednesdays to EU citizens (take your passport). Admire the statues in the lovely Sabatini Gardens afterwards.

Next to the broad, tree-lined Paseo del Prado, the new extension at the world-class Prado museum is an architectural triumph. The well laid-out Botanical Gardens opposite the entrance are worth a wander and behind them lies Madrid’s green sanctuary, the Retiro park. Boat on the lake, stroll through the fragrant rose garden, and watch the terrapins sunbathe by the delicate Palacio de Cristal.

North of the Retiro, Salamanca has always been an affluent neighbourhood. Its grid-like streets and beautiful houses sprang up at the end of the 19th century, escaping from the old city walls. Today, ladies who lunch drop into its spas and designer shops, many of which line the long, sleek Calle Serrano. The National Library and the Museum of Archaeology are close to the Plaza de Colón.

Real Madrid’s home, the 80,000-seat Bernabéu stadium is must-see for football fans and the stadium tour is fascinating. There is a shopping centre behind and, to the north, traditional restaurants in leafy shade, popular with office workers. Next to the stadium, the frenetic Paseo de la Castellana is lined with businesses, shops and restaurants. The Museo de Esculturas al Aire Libre has impressive sculptures.

In the east of the capital, this middle-class area of red brick residential blocks with green sunshades is dominated by the circular Las Ventas bullring, built in 1929. Surrounded by atmospheric sculptures of horsemen, matadors and bulls, it incorporates Moorish architecture dotted with mosaic patterns and crests executed in sprightly yellows and blues. The bullfights run from March until October.