A cultural crossroads, part East, part West and 100 per cent Finnish
You are never far from water in Helsinki, as it’s located on a peninsula reaching into the Baltic Sea. During its 450 year history, the city’s fortunes have swung to reflect the Swedish-Russian struggle to control sea routes. The influence of these two neighbours and rivals is heavily imprinted on the Finnish capital, both physically, in the starkly romantic architecture, and psychologically, in a national character that combines both Slavic melancholy and Scandinavian liberalism.
The gigantic Baltic ferries cruise right into the city, passing the Swedish-built fortress of Suomenlinna on the headland and coming to rest beside the elegant neoclassical waterfront. This part of town was designed by Carl Engel at the beginning of the 19th century; at its heart lies Senate Square, where the imposing green and white Lutheran Cathedral (Tuomiokirkko) stands proud beside the university and the Government Palace. Equally dramatic is the brooding Byzantine-Russian style Uspenski Orthodox Cathedral (Kanavakatu 1, 634267) in the neighbouring Katajanokka District.
Helsinki spreads westwards along the boutique-fringed avenues of Pohjoisesplanadi and Eteläesplanadi – collectively known as Esplanadi – and north along Mannerheimintie towards the main cultural centre around the stunning art nouveau train station, which looks like something out of Lord of the Rings. This is where Helsinki’s commitment to design shines through. Iconic buildings such as the new Opera House (Helsinginkatu 58, www.ooppera.fi, +358 (0)9 4030 2211, closed Sun) and the Kiasma Museum of Contemporary Art (Mannerheiminaukio 2, +358 (0)9 1733 6501, www.kiasma.fi, closed Mon) are located here. The Finnish architect Alvar Aalto designed much of Helsinki’s 20th-century cityscape, and his striking, modernist Finlandia Hall (Mannerheimintie 13E, 40 241, www.finlandia.hel.fi) stands beside Töölönlahti Lake, clad in glittering white marble.
The sauna is an essential part of Finnish life. The best place to test the experience is Yrjonkadun Uimahalli (Yrjonkatu 21b, +358 (0)9 3108 7401), a beautiful art deco swimming hall and home to the best sauna and swimming experience in all of Finland. There are separate times for men and women, and swimming costumes are not allowed.
Local history
Throughout most of its history, the territory of Finland has been dominated by either Sweden or Russia. The influence of these two Baltic rivals is clearly visible in Helsinki, but nothing has been able to subdue Finnish culture and independence. Having gained their freedom at the end of World War I, the Finns have, with pride and determination, maintained their autonomy.
Local politics
With the Soviet Union on their doorstep throughout the Cold War, and strong historical ties with Russia over the centuries, Finland has walked a cautious path of neutrality between East and West. Today, Finland remains a cultural, economic and political crossroads, carefully fostering political ties with its powerful neighbours.
Helsinkifrom £425
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