City of peace
For the first-time visitor to Geneva, the initial reaction is not so much awe at the beautiful scenery, rather a more mundane concern: ‘How can I afford this?’. The chauffeured Bentleys and imposing headquarters, both corporate and inter-governmental, can be intimidating, but there you have the key to appreciating the town: don’t let the glitter get you down. As opposed to St Tropez, where you’re stuck with the mini bar and French daytime soaps if you lack a Platinum AmEx, Geneva is doable on a budget.
Actually, Geneva’s best features don’t even cost a Swiss Franc: the setting on the shores of Lake Geneva (Lac Léman in French); the yacht-packed harbour; the Jet d’Eau fountain with its 140m-high spray of water; and the market stalls selling everything from antiques to flowers on the cobbled streets of the Old Town. Geneva’s parks and gardens are beautiful (don’t miss the grounds of the UN building) and perfectly maintained. On Saturdays, many of the vineyards in the surrounding countryside offer free wine tasting. And for next to nothing, you can go behind the bureaucratic façades of the organisations – the UN, WTO and the International Red Cross to name but a few – that make this town such an important stage for world politics.
Away from politics, head straight for the avant-garde MAMCO (Musée d’Art Moderne et Contemporain; Rue des Vieux-Grenadiers 10, +41 22 320 6122, www.mamco.ch) and admire its sculptures and performance art. St Peter’s Cathedral at the top of the old town (Cour Saint-Pierre, +41 22 311 7575) is an amazing patchwork of architectural styles from Gothic to neo-classical. Make sure you stop by Place du Bourg-de-Four. The lovely square has always been a meeting point for locals who now sit around the flowered fountain or on café terraces. The lake front is known as La Rade and is the heartbeat of the city: quays, jetties and beautiful gardens make it a draw for visitors and residents alike. Last but not least, a bit of advice: beware of the traffic. Whether you’re walking or driving, one distracted moment and the last thing you’ll remember of Geneva is a big blue license plate. Diplomats these drivers may be, but it seems like the frustrations of long negotiations are vented on the streets.
Local history
Because of its location, the city was always prey to invasion. It became an independent republic in 1535. At this time, Geneva became a refuge for persecuted Protestants across Europe and became known as Protestant Rome. During this period craftsmen, such as watchmakers, arrived. In 1814 Geneva joined the Swiss Confederation and its reputation as an international hub began in 1864 when Henry Dunant founded the Red Cross.
Local politics
Being more or less surrounded by France, Geneva is one of the more pro-EU cantons. In 2005 the Swiss voted to join the Schengen Treaty, effectively removing border controls with the EU – very handy for the Genevans who go to France for their supermarket shopping.
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