Reborn German capital headlining in architecture, bars and clubs
If you’re looking to release the inner hedonist, you’ll find nightlife that carries on through until morning and a gay scene that’s unusually shameless. While the city has always been a bolthole for the unconventional, today it’s also a major cultural centre, combining top-flight museums, galleries and concert halls with thriving alternative arts and music scenes. As one of the greenest cities in Europe, there are plenty of leafy spots in which to take a break.
The east-west axis of Unter den Linden in Mitte is marked by the iconic Brandenburg Gate which leads on to Tiergarten Park. North-west of the Gate is the revamped Reichstag, crowned by Norman Foster’s magnificent glass cupola (Platz der Republik, www.bundestag.de). To the south side of the Brandenburg Gate is the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe (Cora-Berliner-Strasse 1, +49 30 2639 4336, www.holocaust-denkmal.de). South of Unter den Linden is Gendarmenmarkt. Topped and tailed by the German Cathedral (Deutscher Dom, +49 30 2273 0431, closed Mon) and the French Cathedral (Französischer Dom, 229 1760, closed Mon), it is one of Berlin’s most beautiful squares. At the eastern end of Unter den Linden is Museum Island (Museumsinsel), which includes the Pergamonmuseum (Am Kupfergraben, +49 30 2090 5577, www.smb.spk-berlin.de, closed Mon), the Altes Museum (Lustgarten, +49 30 2090 5577, www.museen-berlin.de) and the Alte Nationalgalerie (Bodestrasse 1-3, +49 30 2090 5801, www.museen-berlin.de, closed Mon).
Eastwards is the communist-era concrete expanse of Alexanderplatz, and the landmark TV Tower (Fernsehturm, +49 30 242 3333, www.berlinerfernsehturm.de), with a revolving observation deck; south are the reconstructed medieval Nikolaiviertel.
North of Alexanderplatz, the renovated Scheunenviertel (‘Barn Quarter’) is packed with galleries and bars. Its focal point is the Hackesche Höfe, a warren of jugendstil (art nouveau) courtyards. Nearby Auguststrasse is the art scene’s main drag, while the revived Jewish Quarter centres on the Neue Synagoge (Oranienburger Strasse 28-30, +49 30 8802 8451, www.cjudaicum.de, closed Sat).
Friedrichshain has a more communist and post-industrial feel. The lively nightlife around Muhlenstrasse and Simon-Dach-Strasse contrasts with the eerily wide main drag, Karl-Marx-Allee, which is a treat for fans of Stalinist architecture.
Once Berlin’s nonconformist heart, Kreuzberg remains fascinatingly diverse. Its museums include the Haus am Checkpoint Charlie (Friedrichstrasse 43-45, +49 30 2537 250, www.mauer-museum.com) and the Daniel Libeskind-designed Jewish Museum (Lindenstrasse 9-14, +49 30 2599 3300, www.jmberlin.de). Neighbouring Schöneberg offers some great bars and is the hub of Berlin’s thriving gay district.
Tiergarten is dominated by the park of the same name. At its south-east corner is the Mies Van der Rohe-designed Neue Nationalgalerie (Potsdamer Strasse 50, +49 30 266 2651, www.museen-berlin.de, closed Mon) and the Filmmuseum Berlin (Potsdamer Strasse 2, +49 30 300 9030, www.filmmuseum-berlin.de, closed Mon). The latter is in the new complex at Potsdamer Platz, among buildings from famous architects such as Richard Rogers and Renzo Piano.
Local history
Following German surrender in 1945, the Soviets cut off all transport links to West Berlin from 1948-9. In 1961 the Wall was erected, which was to separate West from East Berlin until it was pulled down in 1989. Four years later Germany was reunified. The 1990s were characterized by the regeneration of the East and today Berlin is operating smoothly and harmoniously as one city.
Local politics
Architectural debate over the rebuilding of former imperial areas around Unter den Linden, the Museumsinsel and Schlossplatz, which were substantially damaged during World War II, revolve around whether buildings should be historical replicas or involve contemporary design.
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