Sardinia

Although originally founded by the Genoese, Alghero was invaded by Catalan colonists in the 14th century, and now offers an enticing mix of two nations: delicious Catalan cuisine served in Italian piazzas, impressive monuments erected during Aragonese rule and Italian vineyards such as the prestigious Sella e Mosca (Loc.I Piani di Sotgiu, +39 (0)79 99 77 00, www.sellaemosca.com), also a museum. The ruling families even gave Alghero the nickname Barcelonetta, ‘Little Barcelona’, and all the street signs are bilingual. The ramparts surrounding the town and its historic centre lend a medieval atmosphere and provide an opportunity to participate in the pasagiata, or evening stroll, with the locals.

Home to around 40,000 inhabitants, the port town of Olbia is predominantly industrial. It does, however, boast a tiny old centre with narrow cobbled lanes and lively streetlife. Olbia’s two churches – the small granite Basilica of San Símplicio and La Chiesa di San Paolo, with its green, blue, yellow and red-tiled dome – are tranquil, if not extraordinary.

Cafés, bars and shops cluster around piazza Margerita and corso Umberto. On the third Saturday of every month, piazza Matteotti, adjacent to piazza Margerita, is the site of an antiques and flea market.

Heading north out of Olbia, Road 30 winds its way along the jagged contours of the Emerald Coast towards its main town, Porto Cervo. This pink terracotta toytown is built around a port lined with four-storey yachts and is full of diamond-encrusted ladies of leisure waltzing through its maze of boutiques. It’s a great place for people-watching but devoid of any local Sardinian flavour.

It’s much more rewarding to explore the hidden coves and beaches that lie at the end of the dusty tracks off the main road and appreciate the wonderful emerald green hues of the sea which give the area its name. The crystal clear waters will prove irresistible to swimmers and it is easy to understand why the Emerald Coast is a prime destination for sailing and windsurfing.

Local history

The story of Sardinia is one of perpetual invasion. Indigenous peoples gave way to Phoenicians, followed by Carthaginians and Romans. Briefly occupied by Vandals, controlled by Byzantines, raided by Arabs, settled by Pisans, Genoese and Aragonese, Sardinia finally saw a period of stability under Spanish rule (1409). Handed over to the House of Savoy (1718) it became a Kingdom before eventually becoming part of Italy (1861).

Local politics

Following a referendum in 1946 Italy became a Republic and by 1948 Sardinia had been given the special status of an autonomous region. As part of Italy, it is one of the founder members of the EU and from 1 Jan 2002 euro replaced lire as the currency. The capital city is Cagliari and for administrative purposes the island is divided into four provinces: Cagliari, Nuoro, Oristano and Sassari.