Paphos

Paphos was once the poor relation among Cyprus’ main towns. It was the smallest in size and somewhat isolated from the rest of the island and so had missed out on the rapid, largely uncontrolled tourism development that made Limassol and Ayia Napa such popular destinations. But, that apparent disadvantage soon became the reason why visitors began to flock here. The comparative lack of huge apartment blocks and all-purpose, impersonal ‘tourist areas’ made Paphos a much more attractive proposition for those wanting a bit of local character with their moussaka and chips. Today, Paphos receives the lion’s share of UK visitors to Cyprus and although the souvenir shops and tourist bars continue to multiply, there’s enough of the original town and its attractions left to make it worth a stay.

The Archaeological Park (+357 26 30 62 17), near the harbour, includes the Agora (Roman marketplace) and well-preserved Roman mosaics, among the finest in the eastern Mediterranean. The first-century ancient Odeon is still used for concerts and theatre performances. Some distance away are the Tombs of the Kings (north-west of the harbour) – burial chambers dug deep into the rocks and used not for kings but for members of the local aristocracy from the third century BC – and St Paul’s Pillar where, according to legend, St Paul was flogged while preaching Christianity here in AD45.

Further away but worth the effort are Petra Tou Romiou, the legendary birthplace of Aphrodite (25km east of Paphos towards Limassol), and the nearby Akamas Peninsula, which remains unspoilt despite the developers’ best efforts.

Local history

Paphos was a centre for the worship of Aphrodite in ancient times and, later, the place where St Paul converted the Roman governor to Christianity. Once the thriving capital of Cyprus, it has also been the island’s most neglected town.

Local politics

Trying to preserve Paphos’ glorious past while ensuring that its own residents enjoy the same 21st-century benefits as their counterparts in other towns is not easy. Some of the tacky shops and bars here suggest that it’s harder than the authorities think. Having learned from others’ mistakes, though, Paphos has finally got its blend of ancient and modern about right.