What better than year-round sun and chilled-out locals?
More than two million tourists arrive at Larnaca International Airport every year but very few of them stick around. More fool them. The town of Larnaca, built on the ruins of ancient Kitium, birthplace of the Stoic philosopher Zeno, has a peaceful charm and is an ideal base from which to explore the rest of the island: the capital Nicosia, busy resorts Limassol and Pafos, and one-time clubbers’ paradise Ayia Napa.
Two of Larnaca’s best-known ancient sites hark back to the beginnings of Christianity and Islam respectively. The Bible tells of how Jesus raised Lazarus from the dead, but what happened to him afterwards? According to tradition, Lazarus told the good news of his old friend’s crucifixion and resurrection, eventually coming to Cyprus and becoming Larnaca’s first bishop. The tenth-century Ayios Lazaros (St Lazarus) Church (Ayios Lazaros Square, +357 24 65 24 98), said to be built over his tomb, is one of the best examples of Byzantine architecture in Cyprus. On the shores of the salt lake near the airport, the 19th-century Hala Sultan Tekke mosque is an important Muslim pilgrimage site, built over the tomb of an aunt of the Prophet Muhammad. The sight of its minaret across the lake, rising amid the trees through the shimmering summer haze, provides a memorable photo opportunity.
For most visitors to Larnaca, holiday time largely focuses – day and night – on the palm tree-lined Phinikoudes beachfront promenade, which is lined with cafés, restaurants, bars and pubs. The long beach, which is less crowded outside of the summer months, is clean and well maintained. At one end of the promenade, in attractively restored 19th-century customs warehouses, is the Larnaca Municipal Gallery (Europe Square, +357 24 65 88 48) and the Municipal Paleontology Museum (+357 24 62 85 87), while at the other end stands the 17th-century Larnaca Fort, housing the District Mediaeval Museum (Ankara Street, +357 24 30 45 76). It is also a handy starting point for exploring the narrow streets of the old Turkish quarter, now home to crafts and ceramics workshops. Two other museums that are also worth a visit are the District Archaeological Museum (Plateia Kalogrion, +357 24 30 41 69) and the Pierides Foundation Museum (Zenonos Kitieos 4, +357 24 81 45 55).
Local history
From the modern Phinikoudes beachfront promenade to the ruins of ancient Kitium, Larnaca is a fascinating blend of old and new. The nearby Neolithic settlement of Khirokitia dates back to 7000BC, the fort is a structure from 1600, the ‘Kamares’ aqueduct was built in the 18th century, while many of the town’s most outstanding buildings are from the British colonial era.
Local politics
Larnaca has been somewhat neglected in recent years but its lack of land and tourism development may eventually turn out to be a boon. EU membership means that one longstanding eyesore (the oil refinery) is now in the process of disappearing and a prime site on the outskirts of town should eventually further improve the town’s appeal as a tourist destination.