Istanbul

Why go

In which other city can you cross from Europe to Asia in one 15 minute boat ride?

When to go

For the best weather, aim for spring and autumn. Not every day is perfect – poyraz, a chill Balkan wind, and lodos, hot humid air arriving from the south, can both have a dramatic effect – but generally days are temperate and evenings are mild. Both are busy festival seasons, and early autumn is when the bar, club and cultural scenes start to pick up, loaded with energy and enthusiasm after the dormant summer.

Best for

Sightseeing , Art , Nightlife

How to get there

Atatürk Airport, 24km (15 miles) west of the city is served by several airlines from London Heathrow.

Shopping

Istanbul is a shopping paradise, but this can make it hard to know where to focus your efforts. The Grand Bazaar and Egyptian Bazaar are still an Oriental shopping experience par excellence; Beyoğlu offers more Western and familiar names as well as some interesting independent one-offs; on the Asian shore there’s a less touristy and more authentic market experience to be had on Tuesdays and Sundays at Kadıköy.

Alternative Perspectives

Only 20 years have passed since the end of military rule. In this respect, Istanbul is not unlike Prague or Budapest, newly emerged from decades of political isolationism (albeit self-imposed) and stunted social growth.

Must see

Don’t not leave Istanbul without seeing it from the water, either on a ferry over to the Asian shore or on a cruise up to the Black Sea.

Family activities

Kids will love getting out on the water, but there are plenty of other attractions that will keep them amused from the Enka Sports Centre (Sadi Gülçelik Spor Sitesi, Istinye, +212 276 5084) to the Tatilya (Beylikdüzü Mevkii, Avcılar, +212 852 0505), a large, covered entertainment complex with fairground rides, restaurants and shops. It also has a small theatre with hourly shows at weekends.

Local customs

Tipping. As a rule of thumb, leave about the usual ten per cent at cafés and restaurants, but do not tip taxi drivers. Hammam attendants will expect more like 25 per cent.

Smoking. Smoking is positively encouraged – everywhere.