Istanbul

Third on the site to bear the name, the existing Haghia Sophia (‘Divine Wisdom’) was dedicated on 26 December AD 537 by Emperor Justinian. The cathedral towered over all else and was topped by the largest dome ever then constructed. When the Ottomans took Constantinople in 1453 the sacred site fortunately avoided destruction and was turned into a mosque; its beautiful ancient Christian mosaics, plastered over in gaudy Ottoman designs, were only rediscovered in the 19th century.

Phone:

+90 212 522 1750

Opening hours:

9am-7.30pm Tue-Sun. Last entry 7pm.

Address:

Sultanahmet Square

Directly north of (ie behind) Haghia Sophia are the walls shielding the imperial enclave of Topkapı Palace. Part command centre for a military empire, part archetypal Eastern pleasure dome, the palace was the hub of Ottoman power for over three centuries. Half a day is needed to explore the place fully; if pushed for time, don’t miss the Harem, Imperial Treasury and the views from the fourth and innermost courtyard.

Phone:

+90 212 512 0480

Opening hours:

9am-5pm Mon, Wed-Sun. Harem 10am-noon, 1pm-4pm Mon, Wed-Sun. Closed Tue

Address:

Bab-ı Hümayün Caddesi, Gülhane. Tram Gülhane or Sultanahmet

Seductively curvaceous, Sultanahmet Mosque is Islamic architecture at its sexiest. Built 1603-17, this was the final artistic flourish before the rot set in. Its six minarets provoked controversy – such a display was previously reserved only for the Prophet’s mosque at Mecca – but they do make for a beautifully elegant silhouette, particularly gorgeous when floodlit at night. By contrast, the ‘blue’ interior is clumsy, marred by four immense pillars, disproportionately large for the fairly modest dome they support.

Phone:

+90 212 518 1319

Opening hours:

May-Oct 9am-9pm daily; Nov-Apr 9am-7pm daily. Sound & light show May-Oct just after dusk daily

Address:

Meydanı Sokak 17, Sultanahmet. Tram Sultanahmet

The Grand Bazaar is perhaps Istanbul’s most enduring image – carpet sellers and gold and spice merchants abound – and although (or perhaps because) it’s a big tourist attraction, it is still a hugely important commercial hub. You will be overwhelmed by choice here, so take your time and try not to be bullied into buying that silk bedspread you never knew you wanted until you’ve spent at least a day wandering and getting lost in the maze of beautiful arcaded streets.

Phone:

8.30am-7pm Mon-Sat

Opening hours:

8.30am-7pm Mon-Sat

Address:

The Bazaar Quarter, west of Sultanahmet

While the bazaar’s pretty L-shaped vaulted hall is undeniably a tourist trap, to dismiss it out of hand is to miss out on one of the world’s finest delis: check out Erzincanlilar (shop No 14) for delicious honeycomb and the mature hard Turkish cheese known as eski ka˝ar; Güzel Istanbul Şekercisi (No 39) for excellent lokum (Turkish delight); Papağan (No 65) for pistachios, nuts, honey-covered mulberries and dried figs stuffed with walnuts; and Güllüoğlu Baklavacısı (No 88) for pastries.

Phone:

+90 212 513 6597

Opening hours:

8am-7pm Mon-Sat

Address:

Yeni Camii Meydanı, Eminönü

The Beyoğlu area is the heart and soul of the modern city and Istiklal Caddesi is its high street, bustling with shoppers. It is also graced with some wonderfully early 20th-century architecture and pretty trams will take you half way along its length. The Botter House at No 475-7, an art nouveau masterpiece by Raimondo D’Aronco, is a highlight. West of the main street is the small backstreet neighbourhood of Asmalımescit, home of the city’s low-rent art scene.

Phone:

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Opening hours:

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Address:

Beyoƒlu

Central to this area’s (south of Istiklal Caddesi) history and easily the most distinctive landmark north of the Golden Horn is the conical-capped Galata Tower, originally constructed in 1348. After the Ottoman conquest it was used to house prisoners of war and was for a time an astronomical observatory. It is worth paying the 10TL to ascend to the 360-degree viewing gallery up top, offering some of the most spectacular views in the city.

Phone:

+90 212 293 8180

Opening hours:

9am-8pm daily

Address:

Galata

Constructed during the reign of Theodosius II (408-50), the walls of Constantinople are the largest remaining Byzantine structure in modern-day Istanbul. Up to the Ottoman conquest in 1453, they stood for over 1,000 years defending the city against invading armies, resisting siege on more than 20 occasions. From the Golden Horn in the north the walls encompass the old city in a great arc, stretching some 6.5km (4 miles) to the Sea of Marmara in the south.

Phone:

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Opening hours:

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Address:

Golden Horn to the Sea of Marmara

It’s not until you get on the water that you understand that the Bosphorus was once Istanbul’s high street and the soul of a city spanning two continents. Impressive façades greet you on both Asian and European shores, from the overblown Ottoman Dolmabahçe Palace to the more sophisticated and understated summer European embassy residences. The ferry tacks back and forth between the European and Asian shores, stopping at several villages along the way up to Anadolu Kavağı, the furthest point north before you hit the Black Sea. The standard Bosphorus cruise takes six hours return and costs all of 10TL.

Phone:

+90 212 252 2100

Opening hours:

Sailings are at 10.30am and 1.30pm al year round with an extra boat at noon June-Sept. In summer and at weekends, board the boat at least 30 mins before departure if you want to get a seat

Address:

Ferries depart from Eminönü’s Boğaz Hattı dock, which is 100m east of the Galata Bridge. Tickets are bought at the window labelled Eminönü-Kavaklar Boğaziçi Özel Gezi Seferleri (Eminönü-Kavaklar Bosphorus Special Touristic Excursions).

Dining here remains an experience. Occupying a wonderful set of domed rooms above the entrance of the Egyptian Bazaar this place is very much the essence of genteel old Stamboul. Decorated throughout in blue-and-white tiling, it is worth a visit for the interior if not for the cuisine. If you do decide to give it a go, ask for a table in the front room with views of the Golden Horn.

Phone:

+90 212 527 3909

Opening hours:

Noon-4pm Mon-Sat

Address:

Mısır Çarşısı 1, Eminönü Square