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Mexico,
The East Coast
The East Coast: -
Monterrey: In the North, Mexico’s industrial powerhouse stands beneath the highest peaks of the Sierra Madre Oriental in a setting of great natural beauty. The remnants of Monterrey’s more tranquil past (the Cathedral, the Palacio del Gobierno, the Obispado) compete with its present-day preoccupations.
Veracruz: The capital, which shares the state’s name, is a lively seaport, with excellent seafood cuisine – the visitor will particularly enjoy carnival time in this easy-going city, which is also well known for its lively nightlife. For centuries, Veracruz was Mexico’s main seaport, and it has seen invasions by the French and the Spanish, as well as numerous attacks by pirates. Its colourful history is reflected in its architecture, the highlights of which date from the 17th and 18th centuries. The main square or zócalo, said to be the oldest in Mexico, features the Palacio Municipal (containing the tourist office) and the Cathedral. Street cafes, hotels and bars add to the lively atmosphere. Nearby beaches include Mocambo and Boca del Río, 9km (5.6 miles) and 13km (8 miles) to the south respectively. The Isla de Sacrifios, accessible by ferry, also has attractive beaches and is the site of a pre-Hispanic shrine. Veracruz is also known for its exceptional seafood cuisine.
El Tajín: Approximately four hours north of Veracruz lie the ruins of the Totonac city of El Tajín, one of Mexico’s most impressive ancient sites. Most of the buildings to be seen on this extensive site date from AD 600-700, while the Totonac civilisation was at its height at around AD 600-900. Abandoned around 1200, El Tajín was rediscovered by the Spaniards in 1785. The central edifice is the Píramide de los Nichos, so called because of the 365 square niches on the sides of the building, representing the solar year. Around the pyramid are 11 ball courts whose walls are carved with bas-reliefs depicting human sacrifices, warriors and ball games. Behind this edifice is a network of buildings, El Tajín Chico, which is dominated by the Edificio de las Columnas, featuring massive columns covered in mosaics. An ancient Totonac ritual is performed daily at about noon by the ‘voladores’ of Papantla. Five men in traditional dress climb to a small platform at the top of a pole where one of them performs a dance in honour of the sun god, accompanying himself on the drum and whistle. Meanwhile, the other four wrap themselves in rope fastened to a suspended frame. At a given signal, they launch themselves gracefully into space, rotating exactly 13 times, arms outstretched to greet the sun while the rope unwinds. The exact significance of this ritual is unknown, though it is thought to relate to a pre-Hispanic calendar.
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