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Mexico,
Central Mexico
Central Mexico: -
The central highlands, benefiting from a milder climate, constitute the most populous region of Mexico. Many of the colonial cities of this region include a unique blend of indigenous and Spanish culture; these historic centres have remained virtually intact since the time of the conquest. The conquistadores built very Spanish-looking villages near the silver mines. Today, the main attractions of this region are the architecture, the views, and some very good local cooking. One of the most popular driving circuits is the one following the so-called Independence Route, which links all of the major colonial cities in Central Mexico. Beginning in Mexico City, the route takes the traveller north to Querétaro, San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato, Morelia, Patzcuaro and Guadalajara. Another circuit picks up in Guadalajara, again going north, to Aguascalientes, Zacatecas and San Luis Potosí.
Guadalajara: The capital of Jalisco still has a Spanish colonial atmosphere, despite being the agricultural, commercial and industrial centre of the western highlands. The Cathedral has 11 altars, 30 columns and a big art collection. There are also a lot of parks: the Parque Agua Azul (‘Blue Water’) is noteworthy for its forest-like atmosphere; the Parque de las Armas is where the boys and girls of the town court each other. Around the Cathedral there are two parks, the Parque de los Laureles and the Parque de la Revolución. The Plaza de Rotonda contains columns and statues in honour of Jalisco’s past heroes; the Plaza Libertad has a market with a wide range of locally-produced goods. During the annual October Festival, horsemanship and bullfighting can be seen at the charreada (rodeo). The famous ‘Mexican Hat Dance’ originated in this area - locally, it is called Jarabe Tapatio.
Guanajuato: Guanajuato is steeped in history, legend and folklore. It is situated on Mexico’s famous Independence Route, a road 1400km (875 miles) in length, along which can be traced Mexico’s historic struggle for independence. Designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the town preserves a colonial charm in places such as Hidalgo Street, an underground street, the Governor’s Palace, the Juarez Theatre, the University, the Basilica of Nuestra Señora de Guanajuato and the Valenciana Church. The parish Church of Dolores Hidalgo is of great significance, being the place where, in 1810, Father Miguel Hidalgo raised the ‘Grito de Dolores’, the cry of rebellion against the Spanish when, with 80,000 armed supporters, he commenced the independence struggle. The town also features several museums, including the Diego Rivera Museum (the birthplace of the internationally renowned muralist) and the somewhat bizarre Mummy Museum. The Botanical Gardens of San Miguel de Allende also provide an eco-tourist feature to visit.
San Miguel de Allende: A short distance away from Guanajuato is San Miguel de Allende, which features thermal waters and spas, art and language schools and the laid-back way of life typical of these small colonial cities. The town, founded by a Franciscan friar in 1542, is now classed as a national monument. It is a place of narrow, cobbled streets and squares lined with trees. The houses and patios have elegant colonial architecture and the town is a fitting location for the Allende Institute, a school of fine arts named after a hero of the revolution whose name was also added to the name of the town. In 1880, the Indian master mason, Ceferino Gutierez, applied the tools of his trade to the architecture of the Parroquia de San Miguel. Its Franciscan starkness was transformed into Gothic. The Casa de los Perros (House of Dogs) has sculptured dogs on its balcony. The annual Posadas at Christmas-time is one of the fiestas for which the town is noted.
Morelia: The aristocrat among the colonial cities is Morelia, a city halfway between the capital and Guadalajara. Apart from a few modern buildings, the city retains an atmosphere of old Spain. The Plaza de los Martires forms the centre of the city, flanked on one side by the Cathedral, bearing an unusual pink stone façade, with its 61m- (200ft-) high tower. Other sights include the College of San Nicolas (founded in 1540), the Church of Santa Rosa and the impressive Aqueduct built in 1790 to carry water into the city. Between November and February, visitors should go to the Monarch Butterfly Refuge near Angangueo, Morelia. Each year these butterflies migrate from Canada and the USA to a mountain bordering the state of Michoacan in Mexico.
Querétaro: Situated 250km (155 miles) northwest of Mexico City and linked to it by a busy six-lane motorway is the town of Querétaro, with a population of around one million. It is here that the Emperor Maximilian was captured, tried and executed, and where the present Mexican constitution was drawn up in 1917. A former San Franciscan monastery is now a local museum, whilst the San Agustin monastery has become the Federal Palace. The mansion of the Marquis Villa del Aguila, who ordered the building of the town’s aqueduct, can be found in the Plaza de la Independencia. The town has excellent hotels and restaurants.
Excursions: The Querétaro region is also noted for its striking juxtaposition of ancient sites with colonial mission towns. Ranas is an important example of an ancient ceremonial centre, which scholars have attributed to the Teotihuacán-Toltoec period. Located on a hill top, Toluquilla has remains of military fortifications which show the influences of the Huasteca culture. The second architectural tradition, that of strikingly beautiful Mexican Baroque churches, dates back to the life and work of the Franciscan friar, Fray Junipero Serra, who founded five missions in the 18th century at Concá, Jalpan, Landa, Tancoyol and Tilaco.
Aguascalientes: North of Guadalajara, Aguascalientes has belonged to the Kingdom of Nueva Galicia since 1535. It was a stopping place for travellers on the silver route during the 18th century. Many of the Baroque buildings from this period still remain; the most interesting are the temples of Guadalupe, Encino, San Marcos, San Diego and San José de la Merced; also worth visiting are the government and municipal palaces, the House of Culture and Excedra, and the Ionian column marking the centre of Mexico.
San Luis Potosi: The capital of the state of the same name, San Luis Potosí is 351km (218 miles) northeast of Guadalajara and is the centre of a rich mining and agricultural area. Featured throughout the city are colourful, glazed tiles found on churches, plazas and streets. Good examples are the Church of San Francisco with its blue-and-white tiled dome and a suspended glass boat in the transept, and Carmen, at the Plaza Morelos, with a tiled dome and intricate façade, as well as the Church of San Miguelito in the old part of the city. Other sites include the Palacio de Gobierno (1770), housing paintings of former governors, and the colonial treasury, the Antigua Caja Real (1767).
Zacatecas: At the time Zacatecas was founded by the Spanish in 1546, the nearby silver mines were among the richest in the country. Much of the revenue was sent to Spain, but enough remained to finance the fine cathedrals and palaces. The Convent of Guadalupe houses one of the largest art collections of the Americas and is also an important place for pilgrimages.
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