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Excursions

  Prague, Excursions

For a Half Day

Vy&unknown;ehrad: No other site is as imbued with as much national history as the fortress at Vy&unknown;ehrad, three kilometres (two miles) south of the centre of Prague. Although recent archaeological evidence does not bear out the traditional theory that this was the first site settled by the Slavic tribes, it clearly indicates that, in the 11th and 12th centuries, Vy&unknown;ehrad was of far greater importance than the castle. Although the neo‐Gothic (1880s) church of sv. Petr a Pavel (Saints Peter and Paul) is closed to the public, the façade has stunning carvings. Adjacent to the church is the Vy&unknown;ehrad Cemetery, the final resting place for Czech artists, scientists and academics – an indication of the respect in which they have always been held (no politicians or soldiers are buried here). The often highly artistic graves include those of Smetana, Dvorák and Mucha. Within the suburb of Vy&unknown;ehrad itself, located on Neklanova and Rasínovo nábøeží, are villas, designed by the architect, Josef Chochol, whose designs remain a unique feature of Czech Cubism.

Vy&unknown;ehrad can be reached on metro and tram 17 (visitors should alight before the road tunnels. Vy&unknown;ehrad National Cultural Monument, V Pevnosti 159 (tel: (02) 4141 0348; e‐mail: vysehrad@zris.mepnet.cz; ), provides further information.

Troja (Trojský zámek): Prague’s only chateau, Troja (tel: (02) 8385 1614), was built by the Sternbeck family in the late 17th century, as a paean to the reigning Hapsburg dynasty. Located in the north of the city, much of the rich Baroque interior decoration celebrates the Hapsburgs, notably Leopold I’s victories over the Turks. The exquisite formal gardens lead down to the river, where rowing boats are available for hire (May to October). Visitors can reach Troja by bus 112 from metro Nádraží Hole&unknown;ovice or a pleasant half‐hour walk along the banks of the Vltava. Opening hours are Tuesday to Sunday 1000–1800 (April to October) and Saturday and Sunday 1000–1700 (November to March). Admission is Kè100 (free on the first Tuesday of the month).

Parts of the Prague Zoo near Troja (tel: (02) 9611 2230; ) are still currently closed in the aftermath of the flood at the end of August 2002. Visitors should check in advance before planning a trip there.

For a Whole Day

Kutná Hora: Now a World Heritage Site, located 65km (40 miles) east of Prague, Kutná Hora came to prominence in the late 13th century, as a centre for silver mining. With the founding of the Royal Mint in 1308, a boom town economy developed and, until the veins were exhausted, the town was second only to Prague in importance. The principal point of interest is the extraordinary Gothic Cathedral of St Barbara, with its tent‐like roof supported by three needle spires. Like many of the monuments in Prague, the cathedral design came from the workshop of Peter Parler. The building was financed by the miners’ guilds to honour their patron saint. For a taste of what the miners endured, the Hrádek in Barborská Czech Silver Museum offers tours into the mines (protective clothing is supplied).

Kutná Hora’s main station is located in the suburb of Sedlec – linked to Prague by trains from Hlavní nádraží or fast trains from Masasykov nádraží, on Wilsonova at the eastern end of Hybernská (journey time – approximately 1 hour). Visitors must change to the local train for the town itself. There is also a bus to Sedlec from Prague, which leaves from outside metro Želivského.

Although most tourists pass swiftly through the dreary suburb of Sedlec, located three kilometres (two miles) northeast of the Kutná Hora town centre, it is worth walking from the train station to view the macabre ossuary (kostnice) on Zámecká. Part of the Cistercian Abbey complex – now the largest tobacco factory in Central Europe – the graveyard became internationally famous when Abbot Jindøich returned from Jerusalem with a pot of soil from Golgotha, believed to confer miraculous properties of preservation. Demand for burial came from as far away as Belgium and with the plague of 1318 adding another 30,000 bodies, it became necessary to add a crypt to hold all the bones. The noble Schwarzenberg family acquired the property in 1784. In 1870, they commissioned a local woodcarver to organise the remains. The resulting sculptures, chandeliers and even the Schwarzenberg crest must be seen to be believed. Visitors can reach the monastery with the ossuary by bus 1 or 4 from the town centre. Kutná Hora has a particularly good selection of pictorial signs pointing to all the sights.

The Tourist Information Office, Palackého námìstí 377 (tel: (0327) 512 378; ), and the Cultural and Information Centre of Kutná Hora, Sankturin House, Palackého námìstí 377 (tel: (0327) 515 556; fax: (0327) 512 378; e‐mail: infocentrum@kutnohorsko.cz; ) provide further information.

Karlovy Vary (Karlsbad): Founded in 1358, the Czech Republic’s largest spa town, situated along the river Tepla, has long been a place of decadent extravagance, celebrity visitors and clandestine liaisons. The numerous spas and hotels reflect the past glory of the town. The grandest of all is the Grand Hotel Pupp, said to be the most elegant in the country. The town can be exceptionally crowded with tourists, especially during high season. Transport to Karlovy Vary is by bus from Florenc station (journey time – 2 hours 30 minutes) or train from Hlavní nádraží (journey time – 4 hours). Further information is available from Kur‐Info, Vøídelní kolonáda, Karlovy Vary (tel: (017) 322 9312; ).