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Brussels,
Culture The principal cross‐cultural venue is the Victor Horta‐designed Palais des Beaux Arts, Rue Ravenstein 23 (tel: (02) 507 8200), which hosts major temporary art exhibitions, French theatrical productions, classical and contemporary dance, classical music and the finals for the internationally renowned Queen Elizabeth music competition. The Cirque Royal, Rue de l’Enseignement 81 (tel: (02) 218 2015; ), allows for varied performances in the round, including classical music, dance, musicals and opera. The Halles de Schaerbeek, Rue Royale Sainte‐Marie 22A (tel: (02) 227 5960), hosts large‐scale operatic, theatrical and dance performances and pop acts. Flemish‐language theatre and contemporary dance is well represented at the neo‐Baroque Koninklijke Vlaamse Schouwberg or Royal Flemish Theatre, Rue de Laeken 146 (tel: (02) 412 7070 or 412 7050). The ‘What’s On’ section of English‐language Bulletin, the Wednesday pull‐out section of Le Soir and the ‘Agenda’ section of the Brussel Deze Week free newspaper, available every Thursday, all provide cultural listings. Information and tickets are available at the Brussels Tourist Office, Hôtel de Ville, Grand‐Place (tel: (02) 513 8940; ) and the Fnac store at the City 2 shopping complex, Rue Neuve (tel: (02) 275 1111). The Fnac booking line (tel: (0900) 00600) is for concert, theatre and exhibition theatre tickets. Ticket prices are usually priced around &Euro;13–70 for dance and theatre performances, anything from &Euro;15–90 for opera and approximately &Euro;6 for cinema. Music: The national opera house, at the Théâtre Royal de la Monnaie, Place du Monnaie (tel: (02) 229 1211; ), continues to excel. With only 1200 seats, it is best for visitors to book in advance. For Flemish opera, one should take a trip to Vlaamse Opera, Van Ertbornstraat 8, Antwerp (tel: (03) 233 6685; ), or Ghent’s Schouwburg Straat 3 (tel: (09) 225 2425). The Palais des Beaux Arts, Rue Ravenstein 23 (tel: (02) 507 8200), is home to the National Orchestra () and Philharmonic Society, which organises most of the major concerts in Brussels. The season, annually consisting of over 350 concerts, runs from September to June. In addition to these major venues, there is the intimate Conservatoire Royal de Musique, Rue de la Régence 30 (tel: (02) 513 4587), which is tailor‐made for chamber recitals. The auditorium at Musée d’Art Ancien, Rue de la Régence 3 (tel: (02) 508 3211), hosts lunchtime concerts on Wednesday, from Autumn to Easter. Theatre: There are over 30 theatres in Brussels. The leading French‐language Théâtre National, lost its home at the Centre Rogier (currently being demolished) and has taken up temporary residence in a disused Art Deco cinema palace at Boulevard Anspach 85 (tel: (02) 203 5303). Here aficionados can find polished renditions of classical European theatre. A permanent venue for the National Theatre is under construction at Boulevard Emile Jacqmain – the planned date of completion is 2004. The main Flemish theatre, Kaaitheater (tel: (02) 201 5959) has two locations – Kaaitheater, Place Sainctelette 20 and Kaaitheater Studios, Rue Notre‐Dame de Sommeil 81. Innovative productions are performed in French at the Théâtre le Public, Rue Braemt 64–70 (tel: (02) 223 2966), while literary discussions and readings take place at the Théâtre‐Poème, Rue d’Ecosse 30 (tel: (02) 538 6358). The American Theatre Company (e‐mail: actbrussels@yahoo.com; ) is an English‐language theatre group based in Brussels, staging performances at The Studio Theatre, Rue Waelhem 73, Schaerbeek (tel: (02) 242 4905). The one venue not to be missed is the Théâtre de Toone, Impasse Schuddeveld 6, Petite Rue de Bouchers 21 (tel: (02) 511 7137), where classics such as Faust and King Lear are performed by marionettes manipulated by seven puppeteers. Performances are in French (peppered with local dialect), Flemish and occasionally English. It is housed in a 17th century pub and offers a good range of local beers for refreshment. Dance: De Keersmaecker’s Rosas Company is closely linked to the Théâtre Royal de la Monnaie, Place de la Monnaie (tel: (02) 229 1211; ), while the works of radical choreographers – also contemporary music and avant‐garde theatre – are often staged at the Kaaitheater, Place Sainctelette 20 (tel: (02) 201 5959), and Koninklijke Vlaamse Schouwburg (Royal Flemish Theatre), Rue de Laeken 146 (tel: (02) 412 7070 or 412 7050; ). Alternative music, dance and theatre is performed at the trendy Beursschouwdurg, Rue de la Caserne 37 (tel: (02) 513 8290). The venue is based in Rue Dansaert from September 2003. Although contemporary dance is extremely strong in Brussels, there is no dedicated dance venue. An interest in classical dance is best pursued at the Royal Ballet of Flanders () in Antwerp. Film: About 50% of films are shown in English (‘VO’ – version originale), with French and Flemish subtitles. Programmes change each Wednesday. Hollywood blockbusters are shown at the 12‐screen, ultra‐modern UGC De Brouckère, Place de Brouckère 38 (tel: (0900) 10440). The cinema also puts on children’s films every Sunday morning at 1100, for only &Euro;1.60 per person (standard rates are &Euro;6.60). State‐of‐the‐art Kinepolis, Boulevard du Centenaire 20, Bruparck (tel: (0900) 00555), boasts 28 auditoriums and Europe’s largest IMAX screen. The centrally located Actors Studio, Petite Rue des Bouchers 16 (tel: (02) 512 1696) specialises in arthouse cinema. Cultural events: Each year, Brussels is at the heart of a lively cultural calendar, including the arts festival, Kunstenfestivaldesarts, in May, and the spectacular Ommegang procession in early July. The origins of the traditional Ommegang pageant are rooted in the 13th century, when aristocrats, the nobility and master guildsmen paid homage to the sovereign in a solemn procession. Today, a lively procession recreates the medieval event. Literary Notes Brussels sheltered Karl Marx in exile and it was here that he wrote the Communist Manifesto in February 1848. Victor Hugo was temporarily protected at Place des Barricades 4, before being exiled once again for protesting against the government’s ban on refugees. Perhaps the best literary ambassador of Brussels is the boy reporter, Tintin, created by Hergé (Georges Remy, 1907–1983). Brussels‐born Jacques Brel, the celebrated singer‐songwriter of Ne Me Quitte Pas/Don’t Leave Me (1959), has been adopted by the French as their own, as have detective writer Georges Simenon, Marguerite Yourcenar and other Belgian luminaries. But Belgium developed its own national literary identity during the Symbolist movement and writers like Emile Verhaeren, Charles Van Lerberghe and Nobel Prize‐winner Maurice Maeterlinck, created a misty, dreamy ambience for Art Nouveau Brussels. This taste for the fantastic and otherworldly, hidden in the hearts of staid Brussels burghers, was continued by Henri Michaux and the surreal visions of Magritte and Delvaux. This vision was shared by the comic artists too. Belgians have commandeered the Francophone comic book industry – Hergé is just the tip of the iceberg – proof that Belgians do whimsy and goofy charm far better than the French. For a British take on Brussels, readers should try the modern bestseller, Travels as a Brussels Scout (1997), by London‐born author Nick Middleton. |