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Central Italy

  Italy, Central Italy

Central Italy: Administrative Regioni: Tuscany, Marche, Umbria, Abruzzi, Molise and Lazio.

TUSCANY: This fertile region lies between the northern Appennines and the Mediterranean Sea. The landscape of Tuscany is, typically, one of vine-covered hills, cypress woods, fields of sunflowers and remote hilltop villages. Chianti, the best-known Italian wine, is made here. There are a number of volcanic spas, most notably Montecatini, Bagni di Lucca, Casciana Terme and Chianciano.

Florence: Florence (Firenze), the principal Tuscan city, is the world's most celebrated storehouse of Renaissance art and architecture. Set on the banks of the Arno below the wooded foothills of the Appennines, this beautiful city has long been the focus of Italian arts and letters. Dante, Boccaccio, Petrarch, Giotto, Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo, Brunelleschi, Alberti, Masaccio, Donatello, Botticelli, Vasari and Fra Angelico are among the many associated with establishing the pre-eminence of the city. Brunelleschi's revolutionary design for the dome of the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore is generally accepted as the first expression of Renaissance ideas in architecture. This dome still dominates the city's roofscape, just as the great Piazza del Duomo at its feet dominates life at street level. The square is ringed with café³ and is a popular meeting point. Between there and the river are many of the best-loved palaces - including Palazzo Strozzi, Palazzo Corsini, Palazzo Rucellai, Palazzo Vecchio and the Uffizi Gallery - whilst close by to the north are the churches of Santa Maria Novella and San Lorenzo (by Brunelleschi, Michelangelo and others), and the Palazzo Medici-Riccordi. The Palazzo Pitti and the Boboli Gardens are just across the river (via the Ponte Vecchio).
The Uffizi Gallery houses a celebrated art collection - indeed it claims to hold the finest collections of paintings anywhere in the world. Examples of work start from the transition period when Europe was emerging from the Middle Ages, largely represented by religious paintings and icons (notably by Lorenzo Monaco, Giottino and Gentile da Fabriano), through the highpoint of the Renaissance to the early 18th century. Some of the most famous paintings of each period are in the Uffizi, such as Botticelli's Birth Of Venus, Leonardo da Vinci's Annunciation, Michelangelo's Holy Family, Titian's Urbino Venus and Caravaggio's Young Bacchus. One of the most striking paintings is the Medusa by Caravaggio.
Michelangelo's famous statue of David may be viewed at the Accademia di Belle Arti near the University.

Siena: Siena's most prosperous era pre-dated the Renaissance and consequently much of the fabric of the city is in the older Gothic and Romanesque styles. There is a fine Gothic and Romanesque Cathedral built in stunning black and white marble with a magnificent interior (visitors dressed inappropriately, ie in short skirts, shorts or skimpy shirts, will be denied entry). The Piazza del Campo, overlooked by the giant campanile of the Palazzo Pubblico, is possibly the most complete Gothic piazza in Italy. The city is an important religious centre, being the birthplace of St Catherine, and there is a church here devoted to her worship. The 700-year-old university holds a summer school in Italian. Siena is probably most famous for its Palios, bareback horse-races which take place every year on July 2 and August 16 around the huge Campo in the centre of Siena. It has been a special event since the 14th century and attracts crowds from all over the world.

Pisa: Pisa, north of Siena, is famous for its Leaning Tower, a free-standing campanile or bell tower associated with the 11th-century Gothic Cathedral nearby. Near the Quadrilateral is the Campo Santo Cemetery. Built in the 13th century to enclose earth brought from Jerusalem, it is a unique collonaded quadrangle in the Tuscan Gothic style.

Arezzo: Arezzo, set on a hillside, has both a strong modern and medieval aspect. The Medici Fortress and the Cathedral, built in the 13th-16th centuries, stand majestically on a hilltop overlooking the modern part of town which sits on a plain below. The Piazza Grande is a wonderful medieval square with an old well at its centre, surrounded by impressive historic buildings on all sides: the Palazzo della Fraternitą the church of Santa Maria della Pieve and Loggiato del Vasari (once the residence of Vasari, art historian and patron of many of Italy's most famous painters). The Basilica di San Francesco contains the famous frescoes of Piero della Francesca, Story of the Cross. Amidst all this history, the city still thrives today and is now a centre for antique trade.
Other towns of note in Tuscany include Lucca, famous for its one hundred churches and robust city walls; San Gimignano, known as the 'city of beautiful towers' and one of the best-preserved medieval towns in Italy; Volterra, another beautifully preserved medieval town perched on a hilltop; Livorno (Leghorn), the principal commercial port; and Carrara, where high-grade white marble has been quarried since Etruscan times.
The coast of Tuscany offers many sandy beaches. Popular beach resorts include Viareggio, Forte dei Marmi, Lido di Camaiore, Marina di Pietrasanta, Marina di Massa, Tirrenia, Castiglione della Pescaia, San Vincenzo, Castiglioncello, Quercianella, Porto Santo Stefano, Porto Ercole, Ansedonia and Talamone.
The Tuscan Archipelago is a group of scattered islands lying between Tuscany and Corsica. The best known are Elba and Giglio. There are regular hydrofoil and ferry links with mainland ports. Elba is 28km (17.5 miles) long and 12km (7.5 miles) wide, and can be reached by steamer or hydrofoil from Piombino. Famous as the place where Napoleon was briefly exiled before his final defeat at Waterloo, it has lovely beaches and campsites shaded by pines. Napoleon's two homes can be visited: one, the Palazzina Napoleonica dei Mulini, which he created out of two windmills, situated near the Forte della Stella, Portoferraio and the other, 6km (4 miles) away, the Villa Napoleonica di San Martino, which he set up as his country seat. Near to this villa is the Pinacoteca Foresiana, a neo-classical art gallery built in 1851.

MARCHE: A mountainous agricultural region on the central Adriatic coast south of San Marino.

Ancona: Ancona, the regional capital and largest town in the region, is an important naval and commercial port with several well-preserved Roman remains such as the Arco di Traiano and the Resti di Anfiteatro Romano.

Urbino: Urbino was once Italy's greatest seat of learning and is now a pleasant Renaissance hilltown, its skyline a soaring vista of domes and towers. Also the birthplace of Raphael, several of his works may be viewed in the art gallery at the Ducal Palace, along with works by Piero della Francesca and Titian. Raphael's childhood home is also open for viewing.

Loreto: Loreto is said to be the site of the house of the Virgin Mary and attracts many pilgrims from around the world. According to legend, the house was moved from Nazareth in the 13th century to protect it from marauding Muslims. Angels carried it first to the Balkans then on to Loreto; the journey took four years. The house is enclosed in the elaborate Gothic Sanctuaria della Santa Casa. The Madonna of Loreto was elected patron saint of airmen in 1920.
Popular beach resorts include: Gabicce, Pesaro (Rossini's birthplace), Fano, Senigallia, Civitanova, San Benedetto del Tronto, Porto Recanati and Porto Potenza Picena. As elsewhere on the Adriatic coast, beach resorts tend to be highly organised, with tables and sun loungers laid out in neat lines (often very close together). More informal beaches may be found below the spectacular Costa Conero cliffs a few miles south of Ancona.

UMBRIA: Sometimes referred to as 'the green heart of Italy', Umbria is a small, hilly and fairly untouched region between Tuscany and Marche, with little industry and few towns of any great size. The landscape is similar to that of Tuscany and combines austere medieval architecture and stone farmhouses with gently rolling hills and rivers. Towards the valley of the River Nera and the Sibilline Mountains, the landscape is more rugged, with deep gorges, towns perched on the rocks and wide open spaces, such as the well-known Piano Grande at Castelluccio. Umbria's rich history is still very much in evidence: traces of Umbri, Etruscan and Roman cultures exist alongside Medieval and Renaissance architecture in towns such as Assisi, Perugia, Spoleto and Orvieto or the lesser known towns of Spello, Montefalco, Cittą ¤ella Pieve, Cittą ¤i Castello, Castiglione del Lago, Narni, Norcia and Montone.

Perugia: Perugia, the capital, has been continuously inhabited for more than 25 centuries and contains many Etruscan and Roman remains. Particularly notable are the ancient Etruscan city walls, the Piazza IV Novembre with the Cathedral, the Fontana Maggiore (Great Fountain) and the Palazzo dei Priori, the town hall, which also houses Umbria's National Gallery with its collection of paintings by Pietro Vannucci, Piero della Francesca, Pinturicchio, and Beato Angelico. The Universitą °er Stranieri (University for Foreigners) offers courses for foreigners wishing to study Italian language and civilisation. Perugia is less than two hours by car from Rome, Florence and Urbino, and one hour from Siena.

Assisi: Assisi is a picturesque medieval hill town to the east of Perugia, famous as the birthplace of St Francis, founder of the Franciscan Order of monks. The life of St Francis is commemorated in 28 frescoes by Giotto in the Basilica di San Francesco, Italy's earliest Gothic church. Other interesting sites include the Roman Temple of Minerva; the Romanesque Cathedrale di San Rufino; the Church of Saint Clare; and the 17th-century Basilica di Santa Maria degli Angeli, which rises above the Chapel of the Porziuncola, the oratory restored by St Francis at the start of the 13th century.

Orvieto: Orvieto is a medieval city perched on a volcanic outcrop. The well-preserved city centre has a number of monuments and buildings dating from the Etruscan period. Interesting sites include the Gothic Cathedral; the 13th-century Papal Palace; the Romanesque-Gothic Palazzo del Popolo; and the 16th-century St Patrick's Well.
The ancient city of Spoleto, situated on a steep hill at the foot of Monteluco, has many interesting archaeological, medieval and Renaissance monuments, including the classical Arch of Druso, the Roman Theatre, the famous Ponte delle Torre bridge and the Rocca, the fortress built by Gattapone and now used as an exhibition centre.
Other important Umbrian towns include Gubbio, a well-preserved medieval town situated at the foot of Mount Ingino and home to the famous Gubbio Tablets - the oldest surviving record of the Umbrian people; and Todi, overlooking the Tiber valley, whose beautiful medieval square is surrounded by a wealth of historic buildings, including the 13th-century Palazzo del Popolo, the Palazzo del Capitano and the Cathedral.
Umbria's many historic town centres are complemented by a regional network of museums, the most important of which are the National Gallery of Umbria in Perugia, the Art Gallery in Cittą ¤i Castello (which includes the Burri collection of modern art) and the Montefalco Gallery. In addition, Umbria's countryside offers opportunities for a variety of outdoor activities, and there are a number of natural areas worth visiting. The Monti Sibillini National Park contains a number of medieval villages and abbeys scattered at the foot of the mountains as well as being home to a variety of native animal and plant species. The Monte Cucco Regional Park, known as 'the belly of the Apennines', contains a complex system of caves, underground waterways and mineral springs. Fossils abound, and the woodlands are untouched. The serene lakes and hills of the Trasimeno Regional Park, refuges for many species of migrating birds, have been reproduced in countless 15th-century paintings. The River Tiber Regional Park, designed to reflect the history of the great river, is characterised by oak woods and the archaeological sites reflecting traces of the Umbri, the Etruscans and the Romans. The River Nera Regional Park contains the rivers Velino and Nera, a lake and the Marmore waterfalls; small fortified towns, monasteries and watch towers are scattered along the river valley. Other parks worth visiting include the Monte Subasio Regional Park, home to the historic town of Assisi; and the Colfiorito Regional Park, where Mount Orve and its prehistoric fortified village are located.

ABRUZZO: This region encompasses the highest parts of the great Apennine chain. The northern mountains are generally too desolate for agriculture and much of the land is sparsely populated. A ski resort has been built in the limestone massif of Gran Sasso. The southern uplands are covered with a great forest of beech, which has been designated a national park. Marsican brown bears (unique to Italy), wolves, chamois and eagles may be seen here. L'Aquila, the principal city, contains an imposing castle. Celano is an interesting town, dominated by a turreted castle whose fortified walls provide a walkway around the castle offering picturesque views over the surrounding hilly countryside. The rest of the town appears to be thriving with active and trendy young people, which projects a surprising contrast to the staid medieval architecture.

Tagliocozzo: Tagliocozzo, named after the Greek muse of Theatre, appears at first sight to be just like any other town until one discovers the old Renaissance square with its 14th- and 15th-century houses and lantern-lit alleys twisting around behind it. A stroll through this area at night is a remarkable experience.
The main Adriatic resorts are Giulianova, Silvi Marina, Francavilla and Montesilvano. Pescara is, as its name implies, primarily a fishing port.

MOLISE: One of the poorest parts of mainland Italy, this area is mountainous with poor soil and a scattered population. It does, however, possess its own rugged beauty. The Matese mountain range is still the haven of wolves and various birds of prey. It also offers some excellent skiing resorts and tends not to be as overcrowded as some of Italy's other skiing areas. The winter sports centre of Campitello Matese is well recommended and for those looking for a quiet place to retreat after a day's skiing, the town of San Massimo is an excellent place to stay, with its peaceful lamplit streets and hospitable people. The largest cities in the region are the industrial towns of Isernia and Campobasso. The only Adriatic resort of any size is Vasto.

LAZIO: On the western side of the Italian 'boot', this is a region of volcanic hills, lakes and fine beaches.

ROME: Rome the 'eternal city', exerts an enduring fascination over its countless visitors. Capital of Italy and the country's largest city, it is littered with the relics of over 2000 years of history. Only in very few places in the world is the visitor confronted with the past in such an immediate and forceful way. It has a unique atmosphere. The monuments of ancient times and the splendours of the Baroque are the backdrop to the hectic buzz of swarming scooters, bellowing motorists and animated street café³®
The streets contain reminders of all the eras in Rome's rich history - the Colosseum and the Forum are the most famous from the classical period, ancient basilicas bear witness to the early Christian era. As the major city of the Counter-Reformation, it is not surprising that Rome is also infused with the feel of the Baroque. It is, indeed, the influence of the 17th century which defines the city through the work of architects such as Bernini, Maderno and Borromini. The magnificent squares and flamboyant faē”¤es mask a wealth of painting and sculpture by some of the greatest high-Rennaisance and Baroque artists - Michelangelo, Bernini, Caravaggio, Caracci and Raphael to name but a few.
The Via del Corso, Rome's main thoroughfare, cuts through the length of the city centre from the Piazza Venezia in the south with the vast marble Vittorio Emanuele Monument (erected in the late 19th century to honour Italy's first king and to commemorate the unification of Italy), to emerge in the Piazza del Popolo in the north, beyond which lies the cool green refuge of the Villa Borghese. To the east of the Via del Corso lie the elegant shopping streets including the Via Condotti and the Via Borgognona which lead up to the Piazza di Spagna and the famous Spanish Steps. At the nearby Trevi Fountain visitors guarantee their return to Rome by throwing a coin into the waters. To the west of the Via del Corso a maze of narrow streets winds its way down to the Tiber River. It is here, in the historic centre of Rome, that the most complete ancient Roman structure is found. The Pantheon, on Piazza della Rotonda, was the work of Emperor Hadrian and was finished in AD125. Monumental in scale, the diameter of the dome and its height are precisely equal, while the building's interior is illuminated by the sunlight entering through the 9m (30ft) hole in the dome's roof. Just beyond the Pantheon lies the Piazza Navona. It is a long thin square, on a classical site, but rebuilt in the 17th century at the behest of Pope Innocent X in the high-Baroque style. It is almost entirely enclosed and thronged with people night and day. It is here that the crowds come on a warm summer's evening to sit late into the night on one of the many café “erraces and to watch the passing scene. Moving across to the right (west) bank of the Tiber, the Vatican City is an independent sovereign state. The Vatican City is best known to tourists and students of architecture for the magnificent St Peter's Basilica. Visitors are normally admitted to the dome 1615-1800. The Museum & Treasure House is open 0845-1300 and 0845-1600 during the summer months. Leading up to it is the 17th-century St Peter's Square, a superb creation by Bernini. On either side are semi-circular colonnades, and in the centre of the square is an Egyptian obelisk hewn in the reign of Caligula. It is also possible to visit the Necropoli Precostantiniana, the excavations under St Peter's, although permission has to be obtained in advance and is usually granted only to students and teachers with a professional interest in the work being carried out. Contact the Tourist Information Office in St Peter's Square. The Vatican Gardens can be visited only by those on guided tours or bus tours. Tickets are available from the Tourist Information Office in St Peter's Square; it is advisable to apply two days in advance. To the right of St Peter's stands the Vatican Palace, the Pope's residence. Among the principal features of the Palace are the Stanze, the Sistine Chapel, the Garden House or Belvedere, the Vatican Library and the Vatican Collections, containing major works of art and valuable pictures. The Museum & Treasure House includes the Collection of Antiquities, Museo Pio-Clementino, the Egyptian Museum, the Etruscan Museum and the Museum of Modern Religious Art. There is a restaurant in the museum and a bar and cafeteria on the roof of St Peter's. On the way to the Vatican the visitor will pass the circular hulk of the Castel Sant'Angelo, burial place of the Emperor Hadrian and in later times the papal city's main fortified defence. Moving south, the district of Trastevere is the city's alternative focus and is home to numerous bars, restaurants and nightclubs. The life-long inhabitants of Trastevere regard their home as separate from Rome across the river, an independence that is celebrated every year in July with its Festa Noiantri.
Tourist information line tel: (06) 36 00 43 99 (general information from multi-lingual personnel).

Tivoli: Inland from Rome are the hill towns known as the Castelli Romani, which are popular for excursions. Tivoli, just 40km (25 miles) east of Rome, was once the haven of the rich, first in Roman times and later during the Renaissance. It is well-known for its magnificent villas and gardens, such as the Villa d'Este, Villa Gregoriana and, just outside of Tivoli, the Villa Adriana.

Frascati: Frascati, only 20km (12.5 miles) south of Rome, is famous for its Frascati wine, a light, delicate, dry white wine which has an international reputation. The town itself is also very pleasant. Many of the town's restaurants specialise in the local wine and it is widely available in all local shops. Other hill resorts include Genzano, Castel Gandolfo and Rocca di Papa.
The presence of malarial mosquitoes in the coastal marshes that once stretched the length of Lazio prevented settlement on any scale. The marshes have been drained and this quiet, gentle coastline can now be enjoyed without risk. Ostia, the ancient port of Rome, is now a well-organised beach resort. Terracina, further south, is a resort with miles of soft, white-sand beaches. The nearby town has a modern quarter offering plenty of shops, café³ and restaurants. The crumbling but lively old part of town is higher up on the hill. The Cathedral is appealing, as is the Roman Temple of Jupiter Anxurus, believed to have been built in the 1st century BC. On the very top of the hill overlooking the sea, it is a perfect place, either by day or night, to view the town of Terracina and, indeed, the entire bay spread out on either side.
One of the most popular resorts among the locals is Sperlonga, south of Terracina. The beach there is among the most beautiful in the region and the town itself is reminiscent of a Greek island village. Getting around town can be hard work. Seemingly endless steps wind up and around through white arches and vaulted ceilings only to suddenly open up with spectacular views of the sea and cliffs. Down below, on the far end of the beach, is a romantic-looking grotto beside the remains of the Villa of Tiberius. 30km (20 miles) offshore is the unspoilt island of Ponza.
Other resorts in the area include Anzio (site of the Allied Second World War landing), Sabaudia and San Felice Circeo. Civitavecchia is an important naval and merchant port; there are also regular sailings to Sardinia.