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The World | |
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The Deep South |
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Tunisia,
The Deep South The Deep South: Matmata: (a location used during the filming of Star Wars) consists (as do other Berber villages) largely of sizeable holes burrowed into the ground, a useful defence against the fierce summer heat and cold winter winds. Their homes are built on two levels, the upper one containing storage rooms. In some cases, several of these underground dwellings have been connected together to make hotels and restaurants. 'Mod cons' are generally available, although the furnishings are normally traditional. The mosque there is underground, as is the communal bakery. There are even subterranean oil factories where olives are pressed by a camel-driven mill with a huge olive trunk. Domes that rise above ground level usually mark marabouts, the shrines of holy men. The Matmata landscape is typified by deeply-eroded, conical hillocks separated by narrow ravines, where olive and fig trees sometimes grow. The region is speckled with flat plots of land where goats are pastured among the gardens and clumps of olive trees. The road southeast from Gabès leads through Mareth, scene of a battle in 1943, to Medenine. This market town has a ksar, a fortified citadel surrounded by former grain stores (ghorfas), some two or three storeys high, sometimes used as homes. Some ghorfas have been converted into tourist accommodation and others are now little shops selling Bedouin silver jewellery. On a circular route from Medenine to Foum Tataouine are several more ksars, including Ksar Djouama, probably 14th century in origin; Beni Kheddache, on a mountain-top; Ksar Haddada, with a small hotel and Ghoumrassen, in a valley. All have cave dwellings. The road is rough and is best negotiated by jeep. Two of the most beautiful mountain ksars are Ouled Soltane, south of Tataouine, and Chenini, to the west. The road to Chenini is a memorable one, zigzagging through a cinnamon-coloured mountainscape. The fringes of the Sahara lie to the south of Tataouine, Remada and Borj Bourguiba. Some internal tour operators arrange Land-Rover treks into the desert. Independent travellers wishing to visit it should note that, as a precaution against their becoming stranded or lost, it is a strict requirement that they should first contact the National Guard Post in Medenine or the nearest town. Vehicles should be suitable for this kind of travel, and be equipped with ample water, provisions, repair kits and a tent. An experienced accompanying guide is advisable, as is a preliminary check of the meteorological conditions - particularly before a trip of any length. Drivers (preferably in convoy) should stop at every guard post on the way and tell the officer in charge where they are going. Zarzis: , on the coast facing Jerba, is a beach resort in a coastal oasis of about 500,000 palm trees and 100,000 olive trees. |