Experience a fascinating blend of architecture, entertainment and history at Terreiro de Jesus (Largo Terreiro de Jesus). Gaze in awe at 17th- and 18th-century monuments and visit a museum dedicated to Brazil’s African roots. Shop for traditional Bahian handicrafts and watch capoeira shows. Terreiro de Jesus is part of the Pelourinho district in Salvador’s UNESCO-protected Historic Centre.
From its layout to the buildings, everything about the square is impressive. Note the black and white Portuguese pavement-style floor mosaic, which gives the appearance of geometric waves. In the square’s centre is a large cast iron fountain crowned by a statue of Ceres, the Roman goddess of agriculture and fertility.
Visit the collection of churches, which offer an interesting contrast to the square’s brightly colored colonial houses. On the north side is the Cathedral of Salvador, built by the Jesuit Order in the mid-1600s and home to Baroque, mannerist and Renaissance-style altars. Admire the whitewashed rococo façade of the Church of São Pedro dos Clérigos. The nearby Church of São Domingos Gusmão houses valuable works by Bahian artists such as José Joaquim da Rocha.
Adjacent to the Cathedral of Salvador is the former building of the Brazilian School of Medicine, which today is home to the Afro-Brazilian Museum. Learn about Brazil’s African heritage via exhibitions of art, clothing, masks, musical instruments and pottery. The museum opens from Monday to Saturday and there’s an admission fee.
At almost any time of the day it’s possible to see groups of dancers put on shows of capoeira, a non-contact Brazilian martial art. Purchase Bahian curios, including fitas (good luck ribbons), from the handful of artisans. Sip on a refreshing caipirinha and snack on acarajé (deep fried beans) at the food vendors. Alternatively, dine at the restaurants that line the square’s perimeter.
Terreiro de Jesus is about a 10-minute walk from other major attractions in Salvador’s Historic Centre. If arriving from the beach suburbs, catch a public bus to Praça da Sé. The southeastern corner of the square extends onto Cruzeiro de São Francisco square. From here you can access the lavishly decorated Sao Francisco Church and Convent of Salvador.
