“Best of the Bellas Artes budget hotels.”
My compact single room at the Marlowe looked into a large light-well which may not sound very appearling to some, but in a city of 25,000,000+ it meant a good night's sleep in an almost dead quite room--more important than a balcony and view in this section of the city where sirens, honking horns, and all-night discos can be a problem. The room was spotlessly clean and the wifi was high speed and reliable. My visit in late July (the occasional light thundershowers actually cleared the air and made everything fresh) was a down time for tourists so the hotel wasn't noisy and full--not sure if this would be a problem. I also felt safe and secure. My only complaint, you had to shower with caution, ready to jump away as the tempertaure would occasionally blast you with scalding hot or freezing cold water. I would definitely stay there again as I love this district of DF.
Area recommendations
For me, the Bellas Artes neighborhood has it all. I find areas like the Zona Rosa and the high-priced hotels boring beyond belief. I can be most anywhere in the world in such places and may as well stay home. When you step outside in Mexico City centro you find yourself in an exciting, urban, gritty area that caters as much or moreso to the native people as to the tourist. A warning to those who are put off by urban sights and smells and without knowledge of the most basic Spanish may find themselves out of their comfort zone but the rewards are fantastic.
When to go
As the late July date for my visit to DF approached I noted with dread on the internet that the weather prediction was for thundershowers and rain the entire week. To my surprise though, the mornings were warm and sunny with clouds gathering quite quickely in the afternoon and very light rain if any. Only once did it rain enough to necessitate an umberella or light-weight, hooded windbreaker type jacket. The result of this was that I found a city with fresh, clean air and washed sidewalks and streets and fewer tourists. You hear stories about the incredibly bad air quality in DF so I was delighted that the light rains cleansed the air and washed the streets. I think this is an ideal time to visit DF.
Getting around
For the budget-minded, while it's true you can take the Metro from Benito Juarez Airport, my cab (Sitio 300) was only about $12.00, a bargain considering the safety and convenience. I recommend that you budget for the cab unless you are a seasoned traveller carrying only a backpack. You really have to time your usage of the Metro to avoid rush hours as the human crush is beyond anything you can imagine. If you have luggage, be aware that if you have to transfer between Metro lines, the walk through the underground labyrinth can be the equivalent of at least 3 or 4 long city blocks, not to mention the stairs. Otherwise, during non-rush times, the Metro is clean and comfortable (the rubber tires are great) and CHEAP!!!
What to pack
This is always a hard one as it depends on your travel dates. I like to travel as lightly as possible as I don't like to check baggage. The prediction of thundershowers in late July threw me off and I almost packed a heavy jacket - glad I didn't. A light waterproof, hooded windbreaker and as many changes of undershirts as you can as it can be muggy. I found that most of the days, I just wanted a short-sleeved shirt until evening or until it started to rain. One thing more, I just think that shorts look tacky in a central urban environment and you just stick out. My baggage: dark grey levis, khaki pants, 5 paris of socks, 5 v-neck undershirts & pants, long-sleeved shirt, short-sleeved shirt, polo shirt, hooded, rain-proof windbreaker (optional, one of those short collapsible umbrellas). Most important of all, comfortable shoes (I wear my broken-in tennis shoes.) Leave the fashion jewelry at home as you don't want to be walking around this area at night with obvious valuables even though its reasonably safe (police on almost every block and patrol cars cruising constantly with lights flashing).
Must see
The area around the Bellas Artes can be a bit "gritty" to some and maybe not as classy as the Zona Rosa but it is within walking distance to the historic district buildings and museums, and the Zocalo. My favorite routine was to walk the few blocks to Sanbornes House of Tiles for breakfast where I could actually get just a bowl of All Bran cereal with banana and coffee at an immense lunch counter area remeniscent of the old USA drugstore counters with efficient, uniformed servers. Incidentally, the rest of this spectacular building (once a grand residence) is a must-see. Just a few blocks from the Marlowe is the Ideal Pastry Shop, trust me, you've never seen anything quite like it, be sure to go upstairs to the cake gallery. During the day there are dozens of museums close-by (many world-class) and the Zocalo is a healthy but enjoyable walk or only one Metro stop away. At night you can walk about 5 blocks down Lazaro Cardenas to Plaza Garibaldi to delight in the cacophany of 30+ mariachi groups all serenading or just "jamming" at once, and on your way back to the Marlowe, grab one of the best churros and or hot chocolatse in the world at Choclateria El Moro. The Marlowe is also near to several Metro stops which gives you access to most everything else in DF for only 30 cents a trip.
