With a rich and complex history, the many pasts of Cusco aren't immediately obvious. You have to look further to find them, like the modern day businesses working in Spanish colonial era buildings, built atop Incan foundations. In Cusco you'll find still strong, local customs blending harmoniously with the modern world, where traditionally dressed locals mingle easily with businessmen in suits, backpackers and tourists.Located in south-eastern Peru, Cusco is probably the most visited Peruvian city, due to its close proximity to the famous Incan city of Machu Pichu as well as several other important Incan sites. It was once the capital city of the Incan Empire and has since been recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Nowadays it is the capital city of the Cusco Province and is a large, modern city with a rapidly increasing population of more than half a million people.
A Brief History
Prior to the arrival of the Incas, the area was home to the Killke culture, who built a massive fortress there in around 1100 AD. The Incas later arrived and occupied the region around 1200 AD expanding the city, which eventually became the Incan capital.The Spanish army under the command of the famous conquistador, Francisco Pizarro, invaded Cusco in 1533 and defeated the Incan army. With the death of its commanders, the Incan forces were leaderless and without direction, ultimately leading to the demise Incan society in Cusco.The Spanish reshaped the city, constructing many new buildings while destroying many of the ancient Incan structures. Cusco became the base for Spain's conquest of the Andean world and the spreading of Christianity throughout the region.Peru's declaration of independence occurred in 1821 and Cusco remained an important administrative city in the southeast Andean region. At this time the population was only only around 9,000 people. By the turn of the twentieth century it had reached 20,000 and continued to grow steadily, reaching 80,000 by 1960. The following fifty years saw a rapid increase in growth, with the population reaching half a million people in 2009 and tourism emerging as a major economic mainstay.
Things to see and do
As you'd imagine with such a rich past, there are many historical attractions in Cusco. The Convent and Church of la Merced is a popular site, dating back to 1675 and now housing a museum. The beautiful wood carvings and Baroque Renaissance architecture are what makes this church so special.The Plaza de Armas is a large square enclosed by Spanish architecture that dates back to Incan times and is the site of many important historical events. Adjacent to the the plaza is the Cathedral of Santo Domingo, which is an impressive Roman Catholic church constructed between 1560 and 1664. The original chapel that was built in 1539 remains part of the larger Basilica. Also opening onto the plaza is the Church of la Compañía, dating from the late 16th century and having an intricate facade and impressive alta,r covered in gold leaf.The steep narrow street that runs from the Plaza de Armas is called Calle Hatun Rumiyuq, and is one of the most popular streets in Cusco. Here you'll find the amazing stonework of the Stone of Twelve Angles.The Convent of Santo Domingo was built by Jesuit priests on the site where the Incan Coricancha temple was located. The temple is well preserved and can be seen outside the Convent. The historic Barrio de San Blas is a well preserved neighbourhood of Spanish architecture, built on Incan ruins. Many of the old houses are now studios and workshops for artists and artisans.The world famous Machu Picchu Incan ruins are about 120 km (75 miles) northwest of Cusco and can only be reached by bus from Aguas Calientes, or hiking. The only way to get to Aguas Calientes is by rail, with the nearest station to Cusco being Poroy.
Local Flavours
Many traditional Incan foods can be found in Cusco, including guinea pig (cuy), alpaca meat, 'Papa Rellena' made with vegetables, egg, beef and potatoes, and 'Lomo Saltado' made with beef, spices, onions and tomatoes on rice. 'Chicha Morada' is a non-alcoholic spiced Peruvian drink, made from purple maize.
Getting Around
There are no international flights into Cusco. The nearest international airport is the Jorge Chávez International Airport which handles flights into Lima.The main airport servicing flights to Cusco is the Teniente Alejandro Velasco Astete Airport (CUZ). There are buses and taxis that run from the airport to the city. There's also an intercity bus terminal and train terminal in Cusco.
Weather
The climate in Cusco is known as 'subtropical highland climate', which doesn't have the traditional four seasons but rather a wet and a dry season. The wet season runs from November to March and the dry season from April to October. Temperatures fluctuate little during the year with daytime highs averaging between 19°C (66°F) and 21°C (70°F), and lows between 7°C (44°F) in January and 0°C (32°F) in July which is the coldest month.
Good to Know
Many visitors suffer from altitude sickness when flying in to Cusco. It's best to take it easy for the first few days as altitude sickness can creep up on you. The local remedy is cocoa tea (known locally as 'mate de coca') which might help.It's easy to get around town on foot as the city is quite compact. However if you're sick of walking or want to explore further afield, there are many taxis. Some cab drivers attempt to charge excessive fares to unwary travellers. It's best to use radio taxis (those with advertising and phone numbers on their roof) and confirm the price before leaving. Another way to get around is to use the local small mini buses, called 'kombis'. They are very cheap but can be crowded and unless you're used to them, you might feel unsafe at speed.
Staying here
There are scores of accommodation options in Cusco with a large range of hotels catering for backpackers through to luxury hotels. The majority of the hotels are on the western side of the city around the Plaza de Armas, such as the Hotel Monasterio and the Casa Andina Classic- Koricancha. There are also hotels right at the airport, such as the Cusco Holiday Hostal, which is clean and comfortable, and handy if you're only staying for a short time.